Description
“Irisoir is my ode, my homage to iris of the yesteryear, from my favourite period of European art and culture… La Belle Epoque.
From the outset, one is greeted with the rooty notes of the finest Florentine iris and violet. Slowly revealing a honeyed fruity woody core with a deft touch of spice, just to tease ones senses with something extraordinary rather than the mundane and lacklustre examples of this genre that one is accustomed to.
This is a composition that even took me by total surprise as it revealed countless facets of the usually shy and timid iris, and now you shall be able to experience them with me! Be prepared for a journey back in time…” — press release of the brand. Irisoir was launched in 2016. The nose behind this fragrance is Sultan Pasha.
fotografn – :
Smelling Irisoir, right from the opening, is a deeply satisfying experience to me. The orris is the unequivocal star of the first half hour, an exquisite delicacy of velvety, even buttery richness, violet-tinted woody elegance and just a hint of its rooty quirkiness. At the same time, a honeyed, slightly powdery floral heart steadily grows. Carnation, mimosa, lilac, almond-y helitrope are intricately intertwined into a fleecy bedding over smooth sandalwood and soft balsams, a luxurious, velvety mattress so soothing that the orris could all but fall deep within. This middle phase reminds me quite a bit of L’Heure Bleue, especially the sumptuous extrait de parfum (my reference is one from 90s). But Irisoir has a much stronger presence of orris and less of the anisic spiciness, tonka bean and other oriental elements. As a result, Irisoir feels much more floral in comparison, and more delicate and vibrant as well.
A quiet whisper of peach can be heard throughout the composition as well. It’s at first slightly bitter and woody besides its sweet-tart fruitiness, like the flavour close to its stone. When the elegant and enveloping floral heart gradually softens after about 6 hours, the peach gains a bit more prominence. It’s now a tender fruity warmth mingled with the dainty, honeyed petals of rose, rendered suede-like thanks to the ever so plush orris. Irisoir maintains this adorably silky skin scent of orris, violet, peach and rose over a discreet salty vetiver until it disappears with a total longevity of at least 10 hours. It mostly stays close to the skin, although it projects slightly during its opening hour.
Irisoir is described by some writers as a close contender to the mythical Iris Gris. As I’ve never smelt the original vintage version or the reconstructed one in Osmothèque, I can’t provide any comparison. But I would say that the peach is more like a supporting actor in this star-studded attar. And the L’Heure Bleue association stemming from its abstract yet nectarous, powdery floral heart, rather evokes to me the perfumery of the early 20s century, like Sultan Pasha himself described it as a tribute to La Belle Epoque. That being said, Irisoir does not feel like a mere copy, but a timeless beauty that truly is inspired by the classic perfumery and moves forward in a certain artisitic direction with the help of quality materials and exquisite blending. I’d highly recommend giving it a try, especially if you are an orris/iris fan or if you enjoy warm floral oriental à la L’Heure Bleue.
ohmi9 – :
When I first encountered Sultan Pasha’s series of Iris notes, I have to admit I was stunned – from a lot of modern western perfumery Iris usually comes across in one of a few ways: powdery, waxy (which usually comes from a more ‘raw’ orris root note,) in a way smelling like it’s infamous bread-like rhizomes (which again come from either the orris root or butter) or like a synthetic coolness that to me doesn’t ever feel like iris/orris, but becomes simply ‘that synthetic note’ which is used to re-present iris. None of these are the feelings I get from the Sultan Pasha fragrances whereupon iris is prominently displayed. For instance, Masque Millano’s wonderful L’Attesa is a great example of the starchy, buttery, and waxy/dusty orris root/butter, which can be used amazingly to contrast with Irisoir, which reads a lot more to me as a Pure Iris Flower if such a thing can be spoken of in fragrance. Of course in both situations there are a tonne of notes being used to create the total representation of a note, and to amplify or curve other notes – if you can imagine a photo-realistic painting of an iris for instance, there is of course a lot more at play that simply depicting an image of an iris – and ultimately the ‘framing’ or the work is another way through which the master artist is constructing the whole of the iris to be displayed.
All of this is to say that, in works like Irisoir, there is a lot more at play than simply the ‘note of iris’ despite the fact that, to me, iris is the entire image focused on in this work. I do get Cedar, violet, carnation, heliotrope, lilac, rose, sandalwood, ambergris, peach, and vetiver for sure at various movements throughout this work, for it is one through which the fruity, woody, ambered, and slightly spicy elements of iris are explored, and while violet does read at times as a ‘primary note’ it never replaces the iris as the focal point for me, and ultimately becomes that which displays again the lovely iris flower itself – more often than not by creating the very leaves of the iris itself – while the mimosa, carnation lilac seem to speak to the temperament of the iris, and the carnation perhaps as a pollen of sorts, while the cedar, sandalwood and ambergris the environment which the iris itself grows in. The peach and rose add a honeyed/ambered element through which you can almost taste the sweetened dew dripping from the flower itself. Irisoir is an absolutely masterful work which prompts me to say again what I said at the end of my first series of notes on this fragrance: “it feels luxurious and a true celebration of florals with a direction that indeed seems to guide one towards an unspoken manifesto of the ways in which florals should be.”
A very rare iris, and one which lovers of the note MUST experience.
10/10
YT: Jess AndWesH
Sokyarrorkege – :
This is one of my favourites from Sultan Pasha. It opens with the most buttery Iris Palladia that I’ve ever ever smelt……it’s stunning. It develops slowly into a seamless balanced blend of Iris, Sandalwood (Mysore NOT Austrailian) Violet, Rose, Tonka and I’d guess some Balsams like Tolu or Benzoin…..not sure but they are high quality giving this attar the creamiest and most subtle sillage. This is proper…….it’s expensive but it’s wonderful. A little goes a long long way and I treated myself to just 1ml and its beautiful.
blek suslik – :
I was lucky to get a prototype of Iris Soir. This is a divine composition. The iris and supporting florals swirl together into a captivating blend where they merge so seamlessly together upon a slightly woody/amber base, giving forth a jammy sweetness. I’d almost call it a gourmand but it does dry off enough not to leave a sugary wake. I feel like I’m picking up a jasmine accord. Perhaps my prototype contains it. Regardless, it does feel fairly true to the notes breakdown here. I am not into prominent floral fragrances, but this has broken the ice for me. It’s delectable.
rudzi – :
One of the most outstanding Sultan’s compositions! It opens with violet and iris but soon evolves to a warm and creamy heart, it is like wearing a cashemir coat with silk underwear and a diamonds necklace.
Not a cold Iris but a warm one for a luxurious feeling. A fruity (peach) and honeyed heart with a velvety touch …I feel as the oil has a smooth aurea wrapping me.
There are also flowers…but none of them stands out, they seem to have lovely melt in a buttery base, and that base is out of this world! Orris palida butter dancing with White Ambergris. It is a soothing and opulent attar lasting hours and hours on my skin. I applied a slight touch on my wrist and near my ear and magic lasted the whole day.
This is an art perfume people should wear like a jewel.
latebra – :
I was so utterly smitten by the lusciousness of the sample I was willing to forgive what seemed to be a shy footprint and make a purchase.
Well guess what? That leap of faith paid off – It’s been over eight hours since I dabbed on a droplet and it’s still unfolding its gorgeousness. My search for my perfect iris has finally ended.
mallpall – :
This comes out as marzipan on me, which is a shame. I agree about the silage and longevity, not great.
лабус 68 – :
This must be the most beautiful iris fragrance I have had the great pleasure to sniff. The magnificent cool iris holds court and she is flattered by many notes who together to create my idea of perfection.
The orris root can be a very cold note but the supporting notes reinforce the iris whilst the resins provide a warm glow. It’s a fabulous journey as this beauty develops and you can just about pick out the notes. It is very well blended. The creation of a master Perfumer.
I would have snapped up a bottle but unfortunately the silage and longevity were not good enough for a purchase.