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boltzxxbnm – :
Sweet and fresh, delicate woods and flowers, delightful greenness, warm and gentle spices – I love Hiroko Koshino, it’s feminine, and enlivening, and also deep and sad……it’s a lot of deep feelings…..happiness and forlornness, comforting and soothing, elegant and strengthening. It touches lots of deep emotions: it gives me a feeling of calm and peace, but also longing for things lost, or perhaps never had…. An amazing perfume. I think it’s very precious. A lovely almond smell, fresh and bitter/sweet, and beautiful tonka beans and the lovely flowers. Very wonderful.
Very beautiful.
NUSHA – :
I took my time to grow into this unique perfume. It is one of the most refined woody perfume I’ve ever smelled : it is the epitome of wood in all his “grandeur” and refinement, although the florals & tea are definitively there. This is not the harsh incense, but as Woodlandwalk remarked : “perfumed smoke” in the most sophisticated way. RosaMilena reviewed this unique beauty extremely well, so not much more is to be added to describe this exquisite perfume. This is unfortunately very hard to find, such perfumes are certainly not massively popular : it is really targeted for people who has that acquired taste for very bitter, green, melancholic, non frivolous perfumes.
bublik90 – :
Funny. In the dry down I could have sworn there was a musky iris.
Overall I’m not very impressed by this perfume. It has a strong, soapy opening with an old school feel to it. I also thought I was picking up a strong aldehyde and sandalwood combo in the opening. Came here to look at the notes: sandalwood, no aldehydes.
I get a velvety oud touch with lots of rose and a taming tea element. Then it dries down and I really do smell white musk, rose and iris. Basically a skin scent on me.
I don’t know what Japanese incense smells like, though I’ve heard many speak about how amazing it is. I bring this up because I get zero incense but perhaps this is Japanese incense and I’m not familiar with the smell.
I found this fragrance to be quite boring, frankly. I was hoping for a good pay off after a difficult opening but found something pretty standard.
Ильгар – :
Wonderful creamy smoky wood. Nothing else quite like it, very unique. Great for cooler weather, lasts all day. I can’t quite think of when one would wear this though — it’s not a day scent for work, and yet it’s not really strong enough for night time. Beautiful and well blended though.
zang – :
I find this pleasing – very autumnal and reflective,with a suggestion of perfumed smoke and an accord I’d describe as an old fashioned rose/chypre.
I say ‘perfumed smoke’ rather than incense because it gives a hint of gentle woodsmoke, and I adore smoky notes when they’re balanced, as they are in this perfume
It has beautiful harmony – the rose is complimented with blackcurrant leaf which enhances the sense of an autumn garden (blackcurrant leaf always reminds me of childhood games in the garden – in amongst the bushes with dirty knees!).
The chypre feel reminds me a little of Patou’s 1000, but where that was fairly conservative this has life. I do see what Rosamilena (in post below) means by Wabi Sabi – a Japanese aesthetic. I see a plain tea-house in the remote country mountains outside Kyoto, the colour scheme beige and black reflecting the early winter landscape, the last leaves of Autumn viewed in North light – austere, subtle and authentic. The rose is more a memory of summer – reminding me of dried rose petals
There’s a fairly musky dry-down – definitely the hazy clean cat-fur variety, which only adds to the autumnal and introspective mood. Slightly haunting – which is exactly what I was looking for; something to inspire me to reflect and be creative. I’d also wear this to meditate.
Later edit, this also reminds me of rose potpourri – the kind you’d find in an ancient Elizabethan cottage, old fashioned but pleasing. Not quite right for me, but excellent quality
xnq590JeomiWogkig – :
Hiroko Koshino
Wabi-Sabi – A completely Japanese aesthetic. Here is a richly astringent absence of sweetness, as if magically opening up a newly made, yet ancient, lacquered oriental treasure chest made of hand carved cedar and lined in perfumed silk. I adore this without reservation and could wrap myself up in it completely.
Tremendously dark and imposing opening; as if one is entering a Shogun’s castle in the 16th century. Precious wood completely surrounds as you are walking through these darkened shadowy halls. The inner sanctum, the weapons hall dojo descends deeply into the smell of dark and heavy hardwoods, surrounded by subtle flourishes of clove oil used to polish the swords of the samurai. Rows of stone faced samurai guards sit motionless in vigilant silence.
Sliding shoji doors open to a sparsely furnished tatami floored room with a small lacquered table where a small bronze incense burner is placed; charcoal heated kyara agarwood and fine sandalwood sends wispy tendrils of profoundly meditative smoky beauty through the area. Sumptuous silks rustle with a touch of delicately refined ambrette seed while a kimono garbed woman is arranging a beautiful ikebana; carefully placing a long plum tree branch into an exquisite porcelain vase. A tea ceremony is being prepared nearby; the traditional streaming green matcha brew mingles with the delicate trails of the burning incense, and the scent of the courtyard garden where rose bushes, jasmine vines, camellia, lily of the valley, and ylang-ylang bloom discreetly near a little lotus pond. A zen gong is struck somewhere in the distance to signal the gathering dusk.
Exquisite, austere, very hushed, meditative, and profoundly beautiful.
Suitable for men or women with the most cultivated and refined tastes.
Oblighblothpg – :
Wearing this in the summer heat, it reeked of the noxious emissions of a heavily deforested industrial town. What a relief: autumn air shows Hiroko Koshino is an unsung gem.
The supposedly scentless fantasy camellia note’s bitterish, waxy fruit-honey impression is almost quizzical, mixing strikingly with a wine-drenched rose. Every note listed here is detectable except for lotus, which is better off silent, as it’s usually too damp and aquatic anyway.
Hiroko Koshino benefits from generous application; it has fair longevity and some noticeable sillage but borders on quiet for having so many heavy notes.
The overall impression is the warmth of evergreen woods in the early morning after a night-long downpour. Freesia and tonka save the scent from heaviness, making this suitable for everyday wear. An impressive blend of difficult and exciting notes: tea, incense, oud, and guaiac wood made wearable and intriguing instead of trendy. If only more contemporary designer perfumes would take such risks.
I agree with calling this ‘melancholic,’ though it’s a thoughtful, bittersweet melancholy like the Portugese concept of suadade, untranslatable: “a deep emotional state of nostalgic longing for an absent something or someone that one loves.” Hiroko Koshino is lean-a-little-closer quiet, graceful, romantic, but stark and contempo-modernist, moody, and a touch dramatic.
senya20-86 – :
The first fragrance she released in 1982, I have for a certainty the last bottle in the world, bought in Tokyo in 1982. Flowery-woody with bitter note, that remains crushed cherry seed and crushed seed of wild almond. Also presents sweet spices.
KILLER666 – :
Difficult japanese scent. Sourish rose and black currant with exotic green notes. Incense? Maybe but not smokey. Quiet&sexless, sad&melancholic. Thoughtful and on anything not the similar. Good sillage.