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yarkolisov – :
This is a gothic and masculine masterpiece. It was created by the traditional English gentlemens’ barber house Geo F. Trumper in 1912 as a hair dressing, and was purportedly the hair dressing of choice of James Bond in the novels by Sir Ian Fleming. In the 1980’s it was released by the house as a cologne, in eau de toilette strength (notably stronger than their other colognes), and in 2015 as an eau de parfum (albeit in a smaller 50 ml bottle). I am reviewing the 100 ml eau de toilette. Although the hair dressing and cologne don’t smell similar apparently (I’ve never tried the hair dressing), I can totally see this as James Bond’s signature scent. It is austere, dark, and hyper-masculine and sort of smells like a niche version of Drakkar Noire – in fact it reminds me of my father who used to wear such oakmoss-heavy masculine fragrances back in the day. The scent would also be totally fitting for the Blade Runner universe as it is deeply traditional smelling yet contemporary and futuristic at the same time, oddly. The scent evokes the rain and stormclouds, and dark, somber tones. It is exactly what I imagine someone wearing in a Tim Burton movie. It is gothic, and as what one person said, “reminds you of crypts, old castles and cobbled stones under gaslight lamps with horse drawn carriages making there way through a rainy dark city”. As for the scent itself, it is a dark oakmoss and blackcurrant blend. It is literally packed to the brim with oakmoss and is therefore very green and rainy, with the other major note being blackcurrant, with musk, and a very melancholic lily of the valley in the background. The eau de toilette comes in a beautiful dark ceramic splash bottle that totally represents the scent inside, and has a very good stoppage system for each drop that comes out (though I prefer to keep this in a travel atomizer and spray it). Sillage is strong with a minute amount splashed/sprayed yet oddly subtle at the same time, while longevity is quite good at over 8 hours on my skin. Overall, this is a masterpiece that deserves attention.
4.5/5
yuriy.usanin – :
Oakmoss with sandalwood popping up. A soapy musty woody smell. An elderly man sitting next to you at church smell.
This should only be sold with an accompanying cane.
Alex611005 – :
This is a review of the new Edp version of this scent.
For a fragrance that came out in 1912 it does evoke from the smell a sombre mood like a rainy day in Downton Abbey or something Mr Darcy would wear from Pride & Prejudice.
The bottle is quite beautiful and ornamental with it’s black and silver motif. The smell is fresh and soapy with lots of moss and musk. Out of this you can smell hints of blackcurrant, cumin, spices and light florals. The quality is very nice with vivid notes that smell Soapy smoky and ethereal. Everything is blended and balanced so that no one note overwhelms the other out of the oakmoss musk.
Eventually the scent becomes cleaner with the musk becoming more prominent and the sandalwood showing up here and there. The fragrance is easy and very lovely to wear. Compared to the Edt the scent lasts over eight hours on my skin though it does stay close to you within half a arms length. It also smells more smooth and refined with some of the notes been more balanced. The cumin note has been dialled way back for example.
All in all a very classy scent with a dark sombre mood suited for the gentlemen.
Enascackaky – :
In the new Eau de Parfum concentration this becomes a sublime hymn to oakmoss (I can’t quite believe how they achieve IFRA compliance), studded with jewels of blackcurrant and white florals. There’s a grounding of spices and sandalwood to give warmth to the base of the composition and there’s a definite muskiness which comes through as it dries. A scent for when you are at your most dressed up and dandified – those Edwardian’s knew how to live well for sure. As outré as just about any niche scent you’ll find today.
Blood_Mary – :
Long reviews aren’t something that I typically do, however, I was trying to be very descriptive and objective with my experience of Eucris.
This was a blind buy for me. I bought the 100ml EDT shaker bottle with the traditional screw off crown cap.
By far, my preference for fragrances are those with atomizers, except in the case of the Trumper offerings. For some reason, I just love the unique cap on those.
With most splash bottles, you have to be careful, because the liquid flows freely and it’s easy to overapply or maybe even spill it. I’m confident that if I were to drop the shaker bottle, a drop or two might come out but no more than that. The Trumper shaker bottle dispenses fragrance very economically and if I were going to guess, I’d say one shake of the bottle equals one or two sprays of an atomizer.
Now, onto the fragrance itself.
I put two or three drops of the concoction into my hands, before rubbing it on my arms and the back of my neck.
First off, it you don’t like the scent of black currant, by all means, avoid Eucris. By far, the dominant note is black currant. To me, black currant is likable but previously, I’d only really experienced it as a supporting note, in a fragrance like Aventus. I kept thinking that if the black currant doesn’t recede a bit, I’m going to have to scrub it off. Luckily, it does back off slightly, while the oakmoss and dark musk move in.
Try as I might, I’m only picking up a little of the oakmoss and maybe a bit of caraway and cumin but I’m definitely picking up a dark, musty, somewhat ethereal musk. Lily of the valley and sandalwood are typically notes that I’m quite fond of but I’m picking up very little sandalwood or lily of the valley, if at all (as in, I might be smelling it but I can’t pick either of them out as distinctive notes). MAYBE there is a hint of jasmine in there.
I SO wanted to love this fragrance, as barbershop style and traditional English houses with “proper” fragrances (Trumper, Truefitt & Hill, Taylor of Old Bond) really have an appeal to me. Unfortunately, something doesn’t mix right with my body chemistry. I don’t know if it’s too much black currant or too much dark musk or what but it gave me a slight bit of physical nausea, which is rare but it’s happened to me with several fragrances over the years.
This fragrance is not at all unisex. Without question, it’s 100% masculine.
In terms of projection and longevity, this is heavy, so go VERY easy with it. Even with just two or three drops, the fragrance is extremely strong. Additionally, longevity is above average.
I’m aware that Trumper also has an Eau de Parfum of this and and I can’t imagine how strong that must be. With the EDT being as strong as I’ve experienced with the scent, the Parfum version easily has to be enough to make people tap out.
Keywords I’d use to describe the scent include: Refined, Gentlemanly, Distinct, Discreet, Proper, Polite and maybe even Sensual. No wonder the James Bond reference keeps popping up (oh yeah, and Roger Moore was the best James Bond).
If you like these fragrances, Eucris may be something that you’d enjoy as well: Creed Bois du Portugal, Dior Bois d’ Argent, Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree and Salvador Dali Pour Homme.
Bottom line: This fragrance is a strong, tenacious black currant and dark musk combo.
antonina2008 – :
There is a bit of disinformation out there regarding the Bond connection to Eucris, so I thought I would set the record straight.
Here is the passage from the novel:
“He said firmly, ‘Un moment, je vous en prie,’ and went into the bathroom and cleaned himself up – amused to notice that the soap was that most English of soaps, Pears Transparent, and that there was a bottle of Mr Trumper’s ‘Eucris’ beside the very masculine brush and comb by Kent. Marc-Ange was indeed making his English guest feel at home!”
Firstly, many sources claim Eucris was referenced in Diamonds Are Forever, which is not true. The above is taken from On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.
Secondly, we are not even sure Fleming was referencing the cologne version of Eucris; many believe he was talking about the hairdressing (far more likely as the bottle is next to a brush and comb).
Third, there is no mention that Bond even used the Eucris product, though it does go on to say he ‘took his time’ in the bathroom so there’s a decent chance he did.
Finally, it didn’t even belong to Bond, it was put there by the villain.
Should you want to actually smell like 007, it would be more accurate to bathe yourself in Floris Limes Bath Essence, which Bond definitely used in the books and kept in his apartment. You could even go so far as to get a bottle of the Floris Limes EDT.
So in conclusion, the literary version of James Bond smelled of LIME, not Eucris.
(Thanks for reading and making sure two hours of research on a Friday night were not in vain!)
777t333 – :
Ok so I been called a fregarnce snob, it’s not true I just find fregrances I like are niche, or not mass sold or well known. like a fregarnce but I don’t keep to one type more a grouping of styles..
This fregarnce for me sites happily in a with in my Acqua Di Parma Ezzennza or my Bvlgri as it has floral heart notes but still woody and fresh..
The fregarnce itself is fresh, floral and woody.
I’d happily put classically refined gentalman. Not putting masculine as petrol and greese are masculine but I would want to smell of it..
It’s a up lifting fregarnce to get you balanced and ready to walk out the door and just be you.. noticeable understated but noticeable.
As for the claims of not lasting that’s true you’ll get a few good hours but that’s the style of fregrances it is want longer then use the shave range build it up and used a amplifier lotion from Guerlain..
Well hope it helped oh and PS, the bottle is perfect in my room next to my classis razors and shave oil.
innowashn – :
I bought it and wore it for the first time yesterday. The scent itself is extremely masculine, it rivals the uber-masculinity of even Fahrenheit IMO. However, the performance is extremely poor. It lasts less than 5 minutes on me… no joke. I’m beginning to think I purchased a fake because it’s hard to believe a cologne this masculine at this price would be so weak. I purchased my bottle on Amazon shipped by Amazon but from an Amazon seller. I’m going to have to check the code on the bottle when I get home. Maybe it just needs to age or something, or get some air in the bottle? I’ll be happy to mail a sample to anybody in the U.S. that knows this fragrance to see if I purchased a fake or not. It’s so disappointing because the top notes is the kind of manly scent I like a lot… it reminds me of one of my favorite masculines fragrance I wear in the winter — my beloved vintage Quorum. Maybe Eucris is meant to be an aftershave because after all, there is no atomizer. It comes only in a splash bottle as shown in the photo. Anybody else notice the weakness of this fragrance?
Yuriche – :
I have finally purchased Eucris and it now proudly takes it’s place as the oldest bottle in my (albeit fairly modest) collection, having been released in 1912. I was however familiar with the scent having used the shaving cream years ago.
Blackcurrant, oakmoss, leather and spices create the effect of a kind of medieval barbershop and vividly conjures gothic architecture in my mind, powerfully so. It makes me feel as though I should be spending the night in a mystic castle full of relics, dressed to the hilt and gorging on cheese, port and the breast of a buxom English rose under the light of ancient candelabras. I’m never quite sure if I am carrying it or it is carrying me – but that doesn’t matter, this is entertainment and enjoyment in a bottle for me. A piece of art, blended so masterfully that it puts many moderns to shame.
IDjon – :
My experience of Eucris is as the votes on the notes here suggest: the main player is oakmoss, giving a wonderful old-fashioned clean, soapy feel. Underneath is blackcurrant and a faint spiciness, a sort of whispy, smoky, mustiness. I bought this because the combination of the moss and the black currant intrigued me (they are both notes high up on my list of favourites). It works really well; I love it. I think the berry adds a delicious and an individual and unusual twist to what might be described otherwise as a traditional (dare I use the “b” word) barbershop fragrance. I understand the other reviews referring to something “old”, but I’d really emphasise that this is a beguiling, interesting “old” and in no way unpleasant. If you know Givenchy Insensé, I’d describe Eucris as the Givenchy’s more reserved, conservative, yet fascinating father, or even grandfather. It feels like a cold-weather scent to me. On a practical point, I struggled with the splash bottle, but after decanting (quite straightforward) into an atomiser, all is well. To my mind this isn’t a “splash-on” kind of scent, and it should be in a spray bottle. But this is my only criticism.
Silage is good (by that I mean others will smell it too for the first hour or so) and longevity about 4 hours. I’m fairly certain I would buy this again when I use my current bottle up.
November 2016
Ranilovich – :
Some great reviews below using all the right adjectives to describe this historic fragrance.
I envy those who can pick up the finer nuances of this but what I get is heavy, medicinal and herby. The oakmoss is there but it is always in the background. It does remind me somewhat of Anteaus but is more like an extra strong cough sweet. Slightly headache inducing and is too much for me.
pdi012Diobtetty – :
Many have spoken of this as something ghostly and gothic. I am unable to vision that and hold the view
carried by others of an unique orchestration of ingredients that has produced something exquisitely timeless.
Deep,dense and dimensional Moss sets a canvas for an extraordinarily buoyant Floral bouquet of quietly Indolic Muguet and Jasmine. Top notes weave in and out impressively throughout a drydown of hours.
If you need to understand the mystery of Oakmoss this a place to start.
The Shave Cream and Soap are also Top Rate.
ValdemarFirst – :
Motor oil with Ribena cordial and juniper berries. Hnnnn.
vsetv – :
I like this, but would struggle to find a time to wear it. It’s very formal, and on my skin sits somewhere between Antaeus, Aramis and Quorum with a bit more sweetness than any of those three have. It preforms very well too in terms of sillage and lasting. I definitely think this would be a great signature scent for a mature gentleman of the right cut – the 007 chracterisation is certainly appropriate. For me, however, it would be something to enjoy privately for myself, much like a fine single malt. Given i already own Antaeus, which I find more wearable for me, I couldn’t justify this one at this time in my life (my 30’s). Given how long it has been around, i’m sure it will still be available when I find myself at a more ‘appropriate’ age. Very nice anyway
вадимов – :
I discovered this eau de toilette in the shop of Trumper in Jermyn street. In the mean time they have moved a few meters further to Duke of York street. This is a scent which seemingly goes very well with my particular body and not necessarily with another man’s body. A female colleage who just loves it got a sample and asked her hubby to put it on suddenly came to the conclusion that what she loved on me was more an odour than a scent on him. So one advice: try before you buy.
mariya77 – :
A lovely spicy concoction that I found is almost identical to vintage Quorum, and with similar top-notch sillage and longevity. Recommended.
Feaftavestven – :
Want to raise your stiff upper lip trait about 1000 points? Well, look no further. Now, if the lip in question has to belong to a male no matter what, then it gets even better. Eucris is screaming “MEN ONLY!” at the top of its lungs! No male chauvinism here mind you, I fancy girls who dig masculine perfumes. A lot. But Eucris is one of the very few perfumes that I can’t imagine a woman wearing them. And this is as ironic as they come, since its name derives from the Greek word “Eucharis” which means elegant and graceful, and it’s a…female given name in Greece.
Eucris, besides not being “female” in the slightest, is not very elegant or graceful either. It’s actually so thick that it can be worn as an armour. An armour which was left for years in a musty attic, inside a sandalwood chest that once contained spices. In this attic, a fine English gentleman keeps all the items that he collected while roaming the globe and which are not impressive enough to be displayed in the main hall. But these seemingly undesired and mislaid relics are in fact the ones he cherishes the most. Like a determined and unyielding defender, Eucris draws a line on the ground and envelopes you in an aura of reverence and “I don’t have time for this!”. Especially when “this” is something like bitching about having being ordered to sweep the deck twice instead of once last week, while the boat you’re on is split in twain by torpedoes and sinking fast in shark-laden waters with the nearest land way out of sight. Well, in this case Eucris would be the one worn by the captain, who would manage to deal with everything thrown his way, without loosing a single soul or his composure even for a second. And who would be awarded the Victoria Cross shortly after landing. Posthumously more likely.
I showed the bottle to an old friend of mine, who loves perfumes but is not really into their history, and told him that this very bottle comes from 1912. Well, by just looking at its out-of-an-aesthete’s-dreams bottle he partially believed me, and what disbelief was left vanished after sniffing it, cause as he said, there’s no way such a perfume belongs anywhere after World War II. And he was right…
Eucris is an oddity in our cursory times. Most perfume bottles are filled with perfume. This one’s full of ghosts, but although ghosts are some sort of a national sport in England, the ones sleeping inside Eucris’ bottle belong to a different kind. The one that smiles and laughs leave behind them. But all these smiles were faint and bitter and all these laughs were short-lived and sarcastic. If you have seen “Easy Virtue”, Eucris is the fragrance I imagine James Whittaker (excellently portrayed by Colin Firth) would wear, if he bothered to wear any fragrance at all. Haggard but wise, and no-nonsense till the end. Like the soul of England in a bottle…
puzatik345 – :
A woody/floral/herbal stunner that has been a mainstay in my bathroom for over 37 years. I love it as much this day as the day I discovered it in my father’s shaving bag. Nothing has challenged it as my scent of choice. It has been consistently excellent for the duration, and for me is perfection. The one I’d wear in the last days and hours to comfort me before the journey to eternity.
Eucris has a pedigree that is pretty much peerless having been worn by the great and the good for over a century. A visit to their shop in Jermyn Street, Piccadilly is to momentarily step into Edwardian London. Inhabited by impeccably polite staff heedful to tradition, it is a world away from the perfume counters of Harrods, Selfridges and Debenhams where the air is dense with liberally offered spritzes all competing against themselves.
We are instead ensconced in surroundings that recall a time of Empire, brimming with Old World charm, and graced by gentry in town for fittings with their shirt-makers nearby – exceptions being the curious visitor, and the odd rascal from the world of politics.
The sharpness of the black current contrasts with the gloominess of the caraway, coriander, lily-of-the-valley and jasmine. You become enveloped in an aura of rural England. The drydown evokes walking the coastal and country paths on The Cleveland Way in spring and early summer. Hawthorn, blackthorn, elderflower, juniper and nettle – English hedgerow greenery in its full glory. It results in an ambience of dank, mossy, undergrowth-type earthiness and works perfectly with the tartness of the black current.
The extraordinary thing is, the floral elements contrive to make it even more sombre, and remind me of church flowers and chapels of remembrance. Not in a negative way, but in a profoundly beautiful and dignified way.
One of several magnificent Trumper perfumes, Eucris stands tallest and showcases the ultimate in their craft, so that even after so very many years, it still has a mysteriousness and a near magical effect on me.
Eucris is unique, and as English as Rolls Royce. In my opinion, this scent alone puts English perfumery on a par with the best in the World.
Enduring, Eucris is in a word, wondrous. My signature scent forever.
UPDATE.
Since relocated to Duke of York Street nearby.
alexay – :
Imagine you are walking along a forest path during the summer just as it has finished raining. The fragrance of wild berries and flowers waft through the air, a damp mossy wood odor exudes from the trees around you…
-And then suddenly-
you step on dog crap.
This is actually pretty damn good for its age (a centenarian no less) and could definitely hold its own against the more modern “mature” male fragrances. When I say mature, I’m afraid I do mean 40+ maybe 50+ if I were to stretch it. Pleasant but still has the sweet old grandpa feel.
And as for James Bond, if he had really worn this, his films would have been a lot less than a PG if you know what I mean.
8.5/10 considering the age (the game has shifted a little by now) and assuming it is being used by an older gentleman.
Plarlytut – :
James Bond most famously wore Eucris by Geo. F. Trumper in Ian Fleming’s “Diamonds Are Forever.” For Bond fans its being in that book set it apart as a glamorous masculine fragrance from 1956 on. A masculine scent for sure but guess what? Tiffany Case would smell smashing in this scent too. A splash or two behind the ears and on the décolletage, a glass of champagne and voilà, magic.
Created in 1912 by the famed London gentleman’s barbers you can bet that at least one bottle went down with the Titanic. It is a classic woody floral musk scent that when worn is sublimely rich and sophisticated in a very old school barbershop manner. That can be a good and refreshing thing in the world of todays gourmand and oud craze. At over a hundred years old it is still a star in the masculine fragrance firmament.
It opens with the pungent slightly animalic bite of black currant, sweet caraway and earthy coriander. Then up from the bottom right though the mid notes comes the killer beauty of the oakmoss. It grabs the jasmine and lily of the valley in the mid note range and turns them on their ears giving them a toughness they rarely display. These flowers transfigured by the oakmoss are the Bond Girls of the scent, beautiful, tough and slightly dangerous.
The dry down is all creamy sandalwood and musk, clean and sophisticated to the end. The Oakmoss holds on and never lets you forget who is boss in this fragrance.
Eucris lasts around ten hours on my skin and has a respectable silage of about three feet in the fist few hours and then six to twelve inches in the dry down. It isn’t shy but it is discrete in its style and allure.
The wonderful thing about Eucris and many classic old perfumes and colognes it that they carry a history, a life of there own over the decades and many stories along with them. If handled and nurtured with love by the houses that created them they can be as lovely, exciting, sexy and relevant today as the day they were first un-bottled and enjoyed by the public.
Eucris by Geo. F. Trumper Five Gold Stars *****
(FOR MY 007 STORY ABOUT EUCRIS CHECK OUT MY BLOG ~ SCENTS MEMORY)
dre336Unlogrere – :
Quite a bizarre scent, this one. Reminds me for some reason of L’Anarchiste, although maybe that is just the ripeness of the fruit and spice on the opening. Replace apple and cinnamon though, with blackcurrant and caraway. The jasmine doesn’t stick out to my nose.
Settles into an overripe vegetal musk that reminds me of Narciso Rodrgues FH, but without the overt florals. Must be the oakmoss. Synaesthesia anyone? Smells distinctly purple.
Drydown is soapy/ earthy with sweet caraway. Nice, but in no way sexy.
SkoRpion – :
Today I am briefly testing Trumper’s drier, more leathery offerings Astor, Curzon, Eucris and Marlborough together. It took me a few tries to distinguish them.
Eucris is weaker at first, with lavender and bay leaf, then strong and sweaty with mint or some other sharp herbs. Drydown is multifaceted…dirty for a while like Yatagan, then back to soapier dry herbs with a dash of sweet spice.
GromOnyx – :
I actually ordered this, paid for it and went to go pick this up at my local shoppe with some other gifts for the man I love. I was so excited because I heard such rave reviews about it. I sniffed it and it just struck a chord in me I can’t explain. It smells like an old musty acrid smell-I think it’s too much caraway, but I’m not sure.
They let me switch it out for another Trumpers scent that smells amazing. I love all Trumpers line except for this one. I have at least 3 Trumpers items in his rotation at all times. The violet, limes items and coral skin food are top notch.
This is very high end and made with great ingredients. The mix in Eucris was just too unusual for me at this time.
rus76 – :
Eucris litterally makes me shiver with pleasure! It perfectly fits the idea I have about a classic and traditional but absolutely not aged fragrance. A dirty/clean peppery /cumin opening evolving into a strong herbal-musky drydown while a robust oakmoss presence watches from the above. Crispy, snensual, dark, mature and elegant but not mannered. Probably not so easy to wear but nonetheless excellent. A staple in my wardrobe.
Since 1912, one of the best in its genre.
Rating: 8.5/10
Zhiva – :
This is a very fine, dark, oakmossy, heavy scent in a lovely bottle which definitely suits an older man. It slips on a like a dead man’s suit and the heaviness of the aroma seems to weigh the feet down, shorten the breath and increase fatigue like a bad spell or a dose of pneumonia. The drydown is similar to Yatagan in some ways.
It’s a peculiar scent that conveys a a strange sense of doom and foreboding to the host/victim as if holding up a mirror and offering a portrait of premature infirmity as a cruel joke. Fabulous.
леонардо – :
This is definitely one of my favourites. I tend to switch regularly from Le Male to more leathery and spicy eau de toilettes, till I found this one. This has now become my mainstay.
aftosh – :
This would have been so suave and unique in 1912. But in today’s world we are not so impressed with sandalwood and caraway seeds. I wanted to love it but I had to give it away. Initial notes are too fruity, albeit tastefully so – not sweet. Then all that remains is a strong drydown that must have been great in its day but now smells coarse and unrefined – a paradox as it would have been so unusual a hundred years ago. Sad. I felt like I’d been sleeping in an old musty dank case for storing jumble sale clothes in a glasgow tenement from 1973. Needs an overhall or to retire. How about doing a vetiver Mr Trumper?
BENDER-R – :
I do not get the fruityness in this cologne. To me it gets all spicy, the caraway note is really dominant.
After a while the spices calm down and the flowers and musk shine through. And it becomes a very masculine scent. Reliable and calm. Something you’d like your father to wear on special occasions.
sev – :
Fabulously fruity but never tooth-rottingly sweet, this should be worn by decadent dandies in purple velvet riding jackets. The blackcurrant is ripe to bursting, I swear you can almost taste it as you wear this fragrance! An absolute must for autumn woodland frolics, the herbaceous notes – which could otherwise have been tending towards health-giving innocence – are rendered downright dirty by the husky, dusky musk in the base.
The jasmine could have been sickening, but is well tempered with the lighter lilly-of-the-valley. The caraway & coriander make this charming dandy a man, nonetheless. Without these notes I think this could have been unisex, but truly, this is L’Artisan’s Mure et Musc being ravaged by a suave highwayman.