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Ipo_14 – :
This is Spice! like a food spice!
This is THICK and whiffs within spices in general and food spices! The ambergris is HUGELY DOMINATING in here with doses of lavender, lapdanum, and leather. The chamomole shows up after 10 minutes in to softens the spiciness that is caused from the lavender and ambergris blend. The patchouli is there as well and harshly boosted with the aldehydes, roses, and the geranium. I can;t detect any orris or vanilla but i believe they are there quite hidden but giving the blend a softer touch.
It begins HARSH and OVERLY SPICY but settles quite soft and sexy. Impressive.
mw – :
I am lucky enough to wear this rare gem created by Germaine Cellier, one of my favorite noses. It’s a generous gift from a perfume goddess.
Its aromatic lavender opening is quite similar to Supreme Moment. Then becomes vivacious, woodsy and leathery. A hint of rose adds some fanfare to this handsomely bold chypre. Contrarily to 1960’s New Yorker’s advertising, I cannot pick up any jasmine at all but strong carnation (not listed in our note pyramid). Picture Katherine Hepburn in Adam’s Rib and Woman Of The Year with the intelligent and spirited glint at the same time so glamorous.
Even though it was Balmain’s first perfume, it might not be as popular as other later Balmain/Cellier collaborations since it could give the barbershop vibe to some people. No doubt it was ahead of its time just as Hepburn swaggered in her pantsuits.