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Серёга1 – :
The reason of being from the excellent and little known La Parfumerie Moderne seems to me to be the rescue of the classic glamor of the golden era of Perfumery for the contemporary public. The modern in this sense makes me think of the beginning of the twentieth century and its great advance in the techniques of extraction and the discoveries of synthetics. In Desármant the brand portrays one of the flowers that has become possible to do this in a complex and satisfactory way thanks to the advances of the golden era of perfumery, Lilac.
The label describes that launching a Lilac perfume today is a bold move but I see that statement with a certain exaggeration since there is a wider audience today for the retro theme than a few years ago. Conceptually inspired by the aroma of a mysterious bottle found in a baroque hotel, Desármant recreates the retro fantasy of a floral that seems to sell nostalgia from the moment it is sprayed on the skin.
As a sort of soliflore, the composition of Desármant seems to revolve around the Lilac fantasy, rebuilding the idea of its narcotic and intense floral scent, its fruity aura, the nuances that are linked to ylang and jasmine and a certain powdery aspect, something that reminds you of mimosa and a touch of something spicy and anisic. The perfume holds its idea well in the first two hours creating a memorable and sensual aura, but unfortunately the brand does not invest into a good transition, being very literal in the vintage soliflore reconstruction. The base is very vague, somewhat discreetly vanilic, with a musky and mossy aspect. It would have been much bolder if more modern synthetics or a contemporary style of evolution had been combined with the retro floral of Lilac without stealing its scene. The secret of gold perfumery, incidentally, lay precisely in the ability to use the synthetic advances of its time in a masterly way and this is what is lacking here.
MENSCH – :
Eureka: This is the evolution of Frederic Malle’s En Passant!
DR_FT – :
Lilac leather nirvana! This was a recommendation in a thread as the poster’s suggestion for an unknown gem (TY smellagent), and since I love lilac, I couldn’t resist. This is gorgeous lilac in all it’s glory! The opening lilac blew me away!
Desarmant goes through a few transitions in the background accord, which acts as a supporting cast for the star. During the drydown, the lilac showstopper recedes enough for the leather/vanilla/oakmoss to shine. Each note is is in perfect harmony. The leather is soft, the vanilla rich, and the oakmoss fragrant.
Brilliant pairing. Lilac is a super sweet flower, and you would think it would be in a springy floral mix. To play it against bold leather takes it out of saccharine territory, and lets the fullness of the flower’s aroma shine through. Gorgeous from start to finish.
glamcosmeticc – :
My mother loves lilacs because of her memories of lilac bushes near her childhood home. I looked all over for the perfect, realistic lilac scent for her – Desarmant is it. It’s a simple scent – real lilac, with an oakmossy green base. That’s it. Not something I’d wear personally, but it’s a beautiful scent and I love it because of the realism and the association with my mother.
Masttta – :
This really doesn’t mix well with my skin. When I tried it on perfume stick it was a very fresh lilac scent, but the second it hit my skin it transformed to something nauseatingly sharp forgotten in the back of the wardrobe at some old lady’s house.
I can sure smell the lilacs; trying to suffocate me. No leather whatsoever. Nothing else than this harsh lilac. Waited and waited for the drydown that never came. One second awful, the other second (or rather hours) gone.
Sillage more than moderate, longevity beyond desired.
What a pity, I really wanted to love, or at least like, this one.
6chemisee – :
A light application and Desarmant is a lovely floral spray of purple lilacs and a swatch of supple white leather. Two very contrasting notes that complement each other surprisingly well.
Feminine, cheerful and fresh for a leather scent. Warmed with subtle vanilla powder and earthy dry moss that teases the lilac into a candied violet dish.
Over apply and the leather and lilac start to strike each other without aplomb, clashing with a synthetic screech. There’s a tension between these two notes that rides a fine balance that is easily triggered into schizophrenia. One moment the girls are well behaved and as soon as mom’s back is turned, they’re tearing each other’s hair out.
Fascinatingly moody. Charming but naughty.
derdat – :
Sweet Morphine was my favourite go to lilac scent, it has just been knocked in to second place by this beauty.
Its not a green lilac like en passant, just pure and simple lilac, with staying power, truly beautiful for lilac lovers.
simov-11 – :
I really smell jasmines in here somehow! it’s slightly animalic with more of white floral and lilac. Vetiver, leather, and some more jasmines and lilac. It reminds me allot of “Kamasurabhi” by Lorenzo Villoresi but sweeter and more cheeky.
Marc-Antoine is one of the main few masters who creates evolutionary ideas that results in blends that captures the senses of artists and perfumers in general.
Realy78 – :
This is the only Lilac perfume that I really love. It is deceptively simple. It starts out with big lilac with oakmoss in the background. Everything is soft and nice. Not big sillage but I can smell it and I am happy with that. I am lucky it lasts all day on me. The leather in this is divine but again soft. Not a sweet vanilla more of a fresh vanilla. Even though this is soft it is still assertive. Just the prettiest lilac that stays pretty throughout the wear.
stalinz2010 – :
I freaking love lilac! Seriously! My childhood backyard was covered in lilac trees and I absolutely loved sitting beneath them and just inhaling.
When I firt encountered F. Malle “En passant” I was with no doubt smitten and had to get a bottle instantly. I still have it and I still love it, yet it feels like an absolute innocence in a bottle and you know – there are those days I don’t want to feel as innocent, but still wear one of my favorite floral scents.
DESARMANT is devilish. Can you actually imagine devilish lilac? No? Then try DESARMANT. It has this sharp, dark quality which adds to the lilac composition so smoothly that you don’t even notice that this actually smells a bit kinky. Vanilla combo with lilac is, by the way, out of this world – so marvelous. It gets this going to a very sensual direction and with the darkness/sharpness of leather it had the definite OOMPH moment.
But, but, but – DESARMANT why won’t you last more than 4 hours? Why would you turn so musky and boring some 3 hours in? Why can’t you just stay damn perfect all the time, so I could have to run and buy a bottle? Such a pity. Now I crave this, but I can’t justify 160 EUR for 2 hours of pure pleasure and mediocre and a tad moldy drydown.