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micha1721 – :
THE true definition of a chypre. This was the beginning of chypre scents. And if you are into Jean Louis Scherrer,Rochas Femme,Magie Noire,YSL Y,Mistsouko,Givenchy III, and even Jacomo Silences and Estee Lauder Aliage.
Coty Chypre goes on bold…then smoothes out evenly and waves around you warmly. I find no sharpness or “astringent” vibes in this scent. It does have a underlying “soapiness” to my nose,but this type of soapiness I find acceptable. This is “green” for sure, but green in a oakmoss/woody way.
This, and my beloved Jean Louis Scherrer go head to head for favorite chypre scent.
Coty Chypre….classic…vintage..historic…awesome.
Finally sniffed this and finally own it.
Sillage/longevity/projection are just right for me too.
Masterpiece………….
AnyncPync – :
Perfection is a bottle.
Chypre, chypre, chypre, and more chypre. An orange blossomsd based blend, with more of citrus, oakmoss, doses or jasmines, carnations, roses, musk, civet, and ylang.
I can;t stop sniffing this Chypre fragrance! Super addiction.
stas-virys – :
Chypre By Coty (1917) is the ancestor, the Abraham patriarch for all chypre fragrances ever made. This is where it all began. When you buy a vintage bottle from eBay even at the price they are asking for, you invest into having a fragrance of epic proportions into your life. Now where do I start? This smells of late summer breezes and autumnal zephyrs gently breathing and sighing on a cliff populated by cypress trees over the Mediterranean. A wood, an orchard on the island, where one catches whiffs of fruit, flora and green moss on tree branches and roots, where all is green and at peace. Chypre is named after the Greek island of Cyprus and that location is exactly where this fragrance will take you. Smells of an ancient BC perfume oil, redolent with patchouli and oak moss, styrax, and yes styrax was a commonly featured fragrance in perfumery in the Mediterranean by the Greeks and the Romans. Mare Nostrum (Our Sea). This is a fragrance that should be in an amphora! She is a perfume for Aphrodite who was born from sea-foam and was first seen in the island of Cyprus. Think of the Botticelli painting Birth of Venus. It is a perfume prepared by temple maidens as they prepare for the harvest festival. An veil of smoke and incense is the crowning note which gives it that verisimilitude and realism to the ancient world.
Starts off with fresh and very aromatic green-and-orange notes. Green: the verbena and the leaves around orange flowers and orange blossoms, and the perfume of citrus. This is a very orangey scent as it begins with distinct notes of bergamot orange oil extract, Amalfi lemon and orange blossom. The scent is like passing through an orange grove. There is also something a bit dry from the start as it lacks aldehydes (had not been invented yet, this is a fragrance from 1917) and the greenery is dominant as a result. The greenish patchouli is almost immediately apparent, with herbal, aromatic tones. There are florals o yes there are florals. They are on the unisex soapy side, you know, like a green bar of soap Irish Spring. The carnation comes through first a green carnation, a cabbage rose, heady jasmine, ylang ylang with it’s fresh-fruit scent, a sweet and fresh lilac or violet. These are lovely flowers and evoke a Floralia without going over-the-top. They are flower petals scattered about in honor of Venus.
The dry notes are the winner in this cologne. The base is a big staple of chypre perfumery. Following the green theme, there is moss of oak, plenty of dark green moss, like the moss that grows over rocks and trees like in Ireland! This is almost like a swamp with green note galore. There’s a lot of patchouli which become both oily and herbal, and there are woodsy notes, musk, styrax, and a touch of musk. There is a real living cive secretion so if you are not familiar with the civet, this might not be for you. It is not an aggressive civet note however nor does it ever turn animalic. It is a subdued civet and a soft and warm fur a la Paloma Picasso. The incense note keeps this warm, smoky, and consequently suited to wear in autumn and winter months.
This is a warm and very fragrant perfume. It makes quite the statement. No one I know personally wears this so I stand out wearing it. Like I said before it’s unisex and both men and women can pull it off. For men this is a very mysterious and mature Ralph Polo Green type of thing or a less complex Tsar Van Cleef & Arpels as well as Bijan. The notes are as aromatic as any of today’s chypres for men but because this preceded the tricks of the trade with less aroma chemicals this is more natural and oily. It came to the point where I felt the act of spraying it on myself was quite strong so I removed the spray and turned this into a perfume oil and put it in a splash bottle instead. Great for wearing in the middle of autumn and winter with like a pea coat, and a trench coat. Very stylish and very intellectual, pensive, moody, serene, and elegant, a very deep fragrance for a deep thinker. Poetic and beautiful.
mixey2000 – :
Heartbreaker Chypre
I have a reissued 70s (maybe early 80s? I’m not sure when this was finally discontinued) bottle of Coty Chypre Eau de Parfum strength. And I love it. This is one of the most lovely perfumes I have ever worn. CC possesses almost human characteristics of grace, dignity, beauty, and hope. When I wear this I want nothing more than to sit quietly, concentrate, and just experience.
The top bergamot, lemon, and lime notes in the head notes are not only intact, they smell incredibly fresh and dense and they last for well over an hour. The floral part is interesting, because at first CC becomes a bit spicy and smells like carnations paired with civet, but that fades into a stunningly perfect blend of iris and sandalwood and ylang ylang, supported by incense and a bit of rich musk. That part lasts for hours and hours, and it is so gorgeous. The base surprisingly is light, and smells like woods, incense, and oakmoss. The lasting power is very good, well over 8 hours, but it wears close to the skin.
You know you have those big bombastic 70s green chypres, or 80s rose chypres, whose elements seem huge and encompassing? CC is nothing like those later chypres. In fact it is extremely delicate and refined and balanced, nothing is loud or trying to outshine anything else. CC is almost otherworldly, it gives the sensation of being just out of reach, something you can sense but not take hold of.
Booriansase – :
After years of searching and deciding, I made a leap of faith and purchased a bottle of this legendary perfume. I have the 1986 version which is hard to track down itself. I can only imagine what earlier versions would cost, if you could find one!
First spray, I thought this is familiar and where have I smelled it before? Of course it was the inspiration for all of my favorites that followed from Mitsouko, YSL Y, Lagerfeld, Paloma Picasso to Coriolan.
Upon first blast is OAKMOSS!!! Intense and unapologetic, long before its restriction and perhaps the very reason for it. It is the main player from start to finish. It is bitter and you may be able to taste it. The classic notes are there, bergamot(never more obvious), laudanum and amber. Not so shy vetiver and patchouli round out the classic formula. Its refined and elegant.
This formula is obviously lighter than the original that I have researched. Its no less gentler. The original DNA is here with its floral heart taking it to unexplored territory. It becomes dreamy and distant, lasting about 6-10 hours. The civet is restrained. I am reminded of the long lost “Deneuve”. This formula could work well in late winter and early spring, honestly its anytime you want to return to a new beginning as it has a primal quality to it.
This is required sniffing for fans of the Chypre family. Indeed, this is where it all began.
maska – :
CHYPRE OR THE ISLAND OF CYPRUS
The 1st Chypre
Lauded as being the very first chypre fragrance, on me this is a Shalimar or Emeraude. It’s definitely an Oriental with citrus notes and mossy oak. It has a lovely development and it’s unisex, and elegant. Clark Gable was known to wear this fragrance. It must have smelled amazing on him and I wish I had been one of the many ladies that would have been close enough to his flesh to smell it on him.
As it opens, the citruses are strong, astringent, medicinal and Shalimaresque. The citrus aftershave scent is substituting anise or aldehydes. But it’s refreshing and enjoyable, and the citrus juice is warmer, like the rays of sun on your skin. The more I inhaled the aroma and let the fragrance induce dreams and free my imagination, the more I felt as if this fragrance was a scented description of the island of Cyprus. It’s meant to evoke the Ancient World and the Mediterranean. It’s a perfume jar in a Greek home.
The citruses wear off and settle down into floral notes of ylang ylang, rose, jasmine, carnation and iris. They are not as powdery as I like despite the iris. It’s a heavier carnation fragrance. The carnation is absolutely gorgeous. The florals wrap around you and seduce you like Circe from the Odyssey, the enchantress who seduced Odysseus and for a while had him in her thrall, making him forget his homeland, his queen, and his mission to return home.
The floral notes begin to settle down and the iris scent begins to appear as if she had been competing with carnation. The iris is nocturnal and deep. Then I smelled an arragenment of Oriental notes that include:
Syntax or a resinous tree bark scent, very earthy
Patchouli, the green herbal shrub with a spicy smell
Oak Moss: Smells like hanging moss on trees with a burnt incense type of smell
Musk: Whether it’s civet or some other animal it’s a masculine musk and it lingers when the scent dries down to nothing.
Beautiful, unisex, elegant, seductive. I wear this fragrance on autumn evenings in my black dresses to dinner dates with my friends. This aroma has long been a winner for me. Everything about it is just right. There’s not too much musk, not too much incense, not too much smoke, and not too many flowers. It’s classically composed and well behaved. She is a Mediterranean perfume of perfection.
pasha1992 – :
I have to respectfully disagree w/ Gigi The Fashionista below when she states that the 80s reissue carefully follows the formula of the original Coty Chypre. They smell nothing alike at all! Two totally different fragrances, each very representative of its time of composition in terms of the style & aromachemicals used. The original formula was very mossy & rustic-smelling….the ’86 reissue smells like a late 70s/early 80s style of sweetly-citric musky floral (somewhat similar to Vivage by Avon). One would never confuse the old vs reissue, they smell *totally* different.
Mewrv872JeomiWogkig – :
Still miss this beauty. Why hasn’t Coty brought it back? Then again, it most likely would be reformulated. I am only familiar with the 80’s edition. Many years later, many perfumes later, many Fragrantica suggestions later, I still hope.
chif25 – :
CHYPRE
COTY
GROUP CHYPRE FLORAL ORIENTAL
NOTES: Bergamot Lemon Orange African Orange Flowers Carnation Ylang Ylang Rose Jasmine Lilac Iris Incense Musk Civet Oak Moss Patchouli Styrax
SILLAGE: Heavy Radiates Within 6 Feet
LONGEVITY: Very Long Lasting 6 to 12 Hours
REMINDS ME OF: EMERAUDE COTY SHALIMAR CHANEL NO 5 TOSCA MAURER & WIRTZ CHANEL NO. 22
THE FIRST CHYPRE
In 1917, the horrors of World War I were ending and peace talks in Paris would lead to the Armistice and the formation of the League of Nations. An epidemic of global proportions called the Spanish flu would kill millions. This fragrance came at a time before the Oriental craze of the 20’s, before Emeraude and Shalimar, and before aldehyde masterpieces of Chanel No. 5 and No. 22, but this scent is very reminiscent of those scents, almost like a prototype. This is a floral chypre, the first chypre, the first fragrance of woods and oak moss. On me this was very green and mossy, beautifully woodsy. The opening is citrusy and fresh, refreshing, cool, a summer in Greece. The rest of the time the fragrance blooms softly with iris, jasmine, carnation, and African orange flower. The flowers are not screaming at you, however. They are there but it feels more like flowers that are late bloomers and then the autumn arrives and you smell leaves, woods, and animalic musk. There is civet here and it is very noticeable especially at the dry down. Lots of musk. This makes it unisex. This is a beautiful chypre musk. It’s unfortunate that it does not get as much attention as it deserves. Chypre continues to impress in a world of oud and tons of woodsy scents in both men and women’s perfumes. Chypre also feels just the slightest bit between being cheerful and sad. It’s an autumnal and evening cologne of sophistication and touching beauty. If you like chypres, I mean really love chypres, this is the first, the one that started it all, and the best.
hellgast – :
when I was a child aged around six or seven I bought a box set of Coty scents from a village stall with my picket money. I lost it many years ago, but never forgot Chypre and after searching for a long time I managed to find a full bottle on ebay. It was expensive but worth every penny – it is one of my most precious possessions and my favourite scent, which I ration rather carefully as it is so rare.
svh760bedyWelty – :
THE FIRST CHYPRE
I have a vintage from about 1917-1918 and a reformulation from the 80’s which follows the original formula closely. This is a classic vintage lover’s dream. If you like Coty’s Emeraude you’ll love his Chypre. This is also of great significance to the world of fragrance itself as this was the very first chypre perfume made of sandalwood and lots of woodsy notes. I could smell some opening citrus notes followed by iris hyancinth and jasmine. The flowers aren’t big players here but they make their presence known. Then you get lost in the green forest that is this fragrance. An immense patchouli note envelopes you and the incense fills the sky. I smelt some oak moss which is not listed. This is an absolutely beautiful fragrance which time has almost forgotten. Don’t let this treasure get away. It deserves to be in your home if you’re a fan of historic fragrances. For me Francois Coty is the first true modern fragrance name. No it was not Chanel with her No. 5 or No. 22 (created by Ernest Beaux) in the 1900 to 1919 period Coty was the big name in fragrance and selling hit after hit: La Rose Jacqueminot, L’aimant and Emeraude. Chypre was a revolutionary new fragrance and spawned other members in it’s fragrance family: Guerlain Mitsouko, Robert Piguet Bandit, and Chanel Pour Monsieur. This can wear like a man’s cologne as well, again because of the opening citrus notes (orange, bergamot) and the woods that dominate this fragrance. It’s not a floral but it does fall under the category of floral chypre. I will wear this only now and then especially fragrant in the autumn and winter months. The incense also gives it a lot of warmth. Thank you Francois Coty for giving the world your fragrances.
alex_78 – :
What a joy it is to sniff a historical olfactory item. It must have been good perfume karma which allowed me to access this miniature jewel on ebay. It is not entirely vintage since it is part of the brief coty chypre relaunch in the 70’s or 80s (?).
The opening was very extremly green and mossy, almost as if the perfume were composed primarily of moss. It reminded me a little of the vintage shampoo Herbal Essence when it used to be sold only in a dark green liquid in the early 80s.
It remained an earthy green moss for about 1 hr and then softened into a honeyed moss. It then developed into soft, creamy florals. The civet is barely detectable.
Reminds me of dense, lush forests where fairies hide and frolick. Maybe Arwen from Lord of the Rings might wear this.
Sokol2012 – :
(review based on sample from TPC)
My first test of this archetypal fragrance was a little disappointing. The opening was fascinating, green and fresh but with an animalistic base (the civet?) that kept it interesting. Alas, on my skin the iris got pushy and kept reminding me of something worn by my grandmother the Avon lady. Still can’t remember which one. When I got home that day my bedroom was full of the fresh, out-of-the-bottle Chypre lingering in the air from the morning’s application. It was lovely.
I was outdoors the day of my second test. The black locust trees are blooming, and that’s it! If you’ve caught the fragrance of those trees in bloom, you know the spirit of this fragrance. Green, fresh, a hint of something heartbreakingly sweet, but something dark and bitter as well.
Try this if you can find it, if only so you’ll know.
gypeingedge – :
I’m blessed to have a friend who turned me on to this scent back in the earlier 1990s, and am now sitting on a decent-sized stash of this wonderful perfume!
Many younger perfumistas tend to view Mitsouko as the archetypal chypre, and if they dislike Mitsouko, they give up on all chypres. Don’t know if it is an idiosyncrasy of my nose or not, but Mitsouko does NOT smell to me like most of the perfumes which I consider a chypre, such as Coty’s Chypre, Crepe de Chine, Intimate, Paloma Picasso, Miss Dior (the original), Ma Griffe, and many others. In fact, I’ve never cared for Mitsouko, with its fruitiness and a host of Guerlain oriental spices mixed into the base. Guerlain’s traditional bases have never worked well with my nose or my chemistry. And it doesn’t matter how many paeans are written to their glory, the only thing that matters when you spray on a scent is whether it appeals to your nose.
What I love so much about Coty’s Chypre is that it also has an elegant, perfuminess about it, allied to the green honeyed, mossy freshness of the chypre basenotes. The base holds onto this perfume-y character so that one feels ensconced in the beauty of the floral notes.
flh064Negeltzex – :
p.s. Bandit, alike mentioned as a big chypre, is also not necessarily a typical chypre. It’s a very dry, leathery type of chypre, and it’s on the far side of the spectrum at one end. Bandit and Cabochard have never been anything I could stomach either.
E1206PS – :
I just acquired a small bottle of Chypre parfum from around 1960, and with so many opinions already written, there really is no way to prepare for how it actually smells. I expected to be reminded of Mitsouko, and in a distant way I am, but I was very surprised by the opening, which made me think more of Ma Griffe. Chypre is full of oakmoss, top to bottom, and with it the opening has bergamot and sage for a slightly tangy green start (here’s where I catch aspects of Ma Griffe). Civet startled me a few minutes in when it briefly darted out like a kitten lunging for my foot but then disappeared just as quickly.
As the heart comes into focus, I get lots of orris, jasmine, and a touch of rose joining the oakmoss. It’s at its most powdery here, never too sweet, but definitely more “feminine” for a little while. About two hours in I realized that the labdanum in the base was warming up and joining the overall glow.
This was in some ways what I expected and in other ways very surprising. The initial impact was amazing to me, though it was in the rather quiet drydown that I really smelled the shadows of perfumes to come. I am so glad I finally had the chance to smell this incredible perfume.
dyavol – :
Coty’s Chypre…This may be the most beautiful scent I have ever worn, and I wish with all my perfume-loving heart that they would re-issue it exactly as originally formulated. I bought a bottle of vintage EdT, which I’m forcing myself to use slowly.
In the opening moments, there is citrus, including a lovely bergamot; quickly followed by a hint of civet, and then flowers—rose, jasmine, orange blossom, perhaps. Then I smell something spicy, and a bit of deep, rooty iris scent. There is a lightly green quality at this stage, with almost a mint smell, and a rich bed of oakmoss and the dry styrax underlying all. I don’t see them in the notes, but I feel as if there are some resins in this: labdanum, especially. The first several applications from my older bottle seemed to have a pronounced powdery vintage note (a la Coty face powder) which took a while to dissipate, but subsequent sprays have much less of that quality, for some reason.
This is not, on me, a strong perfume. Sillage is pretty close, definitely within arm’s length on a warm day and more subtle even than that on cooler days. Duration is perhaps four hours. It clings to cloth, but loses some of itself; what I smell lingering in clothing is jasmine, rose, and civet, more reminiscent of Joy than of Chypre.
I will seek out the re-issue of this from 1986, which is said to be rather different but still beautiful; but I will always be watching for bottles of the older Chypre, in any form. For me, this perfume is like coming home to oneself—one’s best self, sensual and smart and in touch with all things ancient and profound. Chypre is the scent of a woman dancing between the green earth and starry heavens, beautiful and mortal and ecstatic…
NTiquohyT – :
The first Coty Chypre was introduced in 1917, but since there was a reissue of it in the 1980’s, reviews of it can be confusing and even conflicting since one needs to know which version is being reviewed to really understand the comparisons people are making to other chypres like Mitsouko or Miss Dior. I have the 1980’s reissue of Coty Chypre in EDP and when I first smelled it I could see why people have said that it contained the “bones” of Mitsouko, etc. It’s not sweet or pretty in any way and anyone who leans in the direction of fruity floral type scents, should not bother as it will have you screaming and running to the sink for the soap. You have to be a lover of bold chypres to fully appreciate it. I love it and think of it as a “handsome”, meaty, herbal scent. However, reviews for the version BEFORE the reissue state that the two versions of Coty Chypre are actually two different perfumes. Some reviews lead me to imagine that the original was startling and almost brutal. Some said that it was a complete let-down after they finally smelled it and the the reissue was an improvement. Like everyone here, I’m obsessed with perfume, so my curiosity got the best of me and I had to compare the two for myself to understand why the reviews were so mixed and conflicting. I finally managed to nab (spent more than I should have)a small mini that is most likely from the late 1950’s (judging from the style of the cap). When I received it, I immediately dabbed it on and let it play out. I would smell my wrists frequently as I moved about the house, working. My verdict is this and it wasn’t at all what I expected: At first I was a little underwhelmed by the original version, as just out of the bottle and onto the skin, it’s not nearly as bold and neon as the reissue. Instead it’s rather quiet and subdued until it’s warmed by the skin. There’s definitely oakmoss right from the start, along with a soft rose. There is a big, unexpected, note of vetiver. As I wore it I was puzzled because I was never reminded of Mitsouko, in fact, the surprise for me was that this veered more into Djedi territory, so much so, that I applied Djedi to the back of my hand to compare. “What!?”, I know you’re saying by now, but that’s what I’m getting from this original version of Coty Chypre: the “bones” of Djedi (1927) and not Mitsouko (1919). And I also think that the 1986 reissue of Coty Chypre may have been inspired by a combination of Mitsouko and Miss Dior. The Original Coty Chypre and the reissue are definitely two different scents. Which do I like best? It’s hard to say as it’s like apples and oranges. The reissue is one of my most cherished and satisfying chypres in my collection, but the original is so strangely beautiful, interesting and unexpected that I’m enjoying the pondering of it and already fretting that my new little bottle is not enough.
moreman – :
Vintage. Beauty in simplicity. This is simply a wonderful chypre scent. I like it a lot.
zmc777elipseskism – :
This is quite simple but effective. There is some animalic element at first but it doesn’t last long, as others have said. It also seems to have some aldehydes but they too are not very strong. I can’t say I’d go out of my way to buy a bottle, since I already have the original Armani, which may be my favorite chypre at the moment, but I do like Chypre better than Mitsouko, which to me goes off on an inconsistent tangent with the peach note. If you want a bare, but mild and pleasant chypre, this may be the way to go (you can still find it on ebay once in a while at reasonable prices). Note that believe I have the 1980s EdP.
FommaHeinna – :
I once had a bottle of this and loved it. It was like it was the definition of perfume. It reminded me of how my aunt and her friends smelled when I was just a little girl.
barmalei09 – :
The day finally arrived in which I sprayed Chypre on left wrist, and Mitsouko on right wrist. I waited for the notes to develop. Mitsouko is sweeter, fruitier, ladylike proper, a piano sonata in a moonlight setting. Chypre is downright sensuous, running free and teasing, enticing my loved one to tango. It’s the CIVET, friends. One sniff and I want the fantasy to go on forever. Why did Coty turn off the music on this jewel?
VfedorV – :
Legendary scents… Where are you now ? Lost for ever ?
So sad…
Aykobq – :
It´s so sad that such a land mark in perfume story, is no longer produced. a real heartbrake. maybe we could sign a collective petition for it to be re-launched (?) I´m sure it would be profitable
RUST123 – :
Iconic – yes. Classy – yes. Dark, deep, woody, green, mossy – yes. A classic – yes. Chypre is inimitable. A midsummer night’s dream in a bottle. So rare and so beautiful. It is incomparable.
Meqqc967bedyWelty – :
Contrary to those who believe more modern offerings of this genre have improved upon the original, I will hold fast to this, Coty’s Chypre.
It is so mellow compared to Mitsouko with none of the high notes, so warm compared to Y, while still maintaining its “green”.
The moss note is incomparable. I will treasure my supply and save the bottle when it’s gone.
Lianiepay – :
This review is of a vintage Coty Chypre Eau de Toilette from the 50’s.
Chypre is generic, in the sense that it established an entire genre of fragrances with one simple structure: citrus, resin, lichen. In this case – bergamot, labdanum, and oakmoss. A central structure so flexible yet high quality that it allowed thousands of fragrance ideas to come to life.
The chypre is probably my favorite type of fragrance. It always hits the right spot, as long as the chypre “smell” is there. So, yes, Chypre is generic because it has that “chypre” smell, but smelling this vintage juice from the 50’s is kind of like stumbling upon a lost city in the wild where all taboos and societal limitations run free. It is a timeless accord, paired with a civet note that couldn’t have been done any better. There are very few animalic chypres out there, but Coty was able to pull off civet with a fleshy, sexual warmth better than any Guerlain ever could. And, it’s not to say that Guerlain sucks at civet – Jicky and Shalimar are both awesome fragrances. However, Chypre is MY kind of civet. While I do smell a faint resinous labdanum note in Chypre, the supporting structure (middle) is decidedly floral, with prominent notes of jasmine and iris lending to that signature “starchy” smell of a chypre. There’s also a strange “fishy” note in there, but it’s not intrusive or unpleasant. The base is a faint mossy green smell. Overall, Chypre EDT takes about 5 to 6 hours to evolve on my skin.
I’ve heard people say before that Chypre de Coty is a dark, green, bewitching fragrance that is hard to love. I don’t find it evil at all – in fact, I find it just as friendly as Mitsouko. Chypre is like Mitsouko’s wild, unchained sister. It’s the perfect fragrance for a hippie that likes to smell nice. It’s a crime that Chypre, one of the most important fragrances ever, has been lost to the world, and I’m going to try and get as much as I can of it before it vanishes for good. Hopefully someday it will come back in all or most of its former glory.
Also, in terms of what the original Chypre is closest to, it has the starchiness of Mitsouko, but it’s not fruity at all. It has a greener character, sort of like Givenchy III.
david326 – :
Coty’s iconic Chypre is a classic right up there with Chanel No.5 but alas a treasure now lost. I imagine my mother wearing it when she was a sylish young woman in the 1950s before her marriage, although I don’t know that she ever did. Heavy with oakmass and civet, it will not be to everyone’s taste and may indeed be deemed unwearable by those used to a more casual lifestyle or brought up to today’s ‘clean’ scents. I own a little bottle of Chypre perfume that I take great pleasure in but confess to only sniffing, partly because it is a precious commodity in short supply and partly because it makes such a formal statement that there are few occasions in my own life where I could imagine wearing it. Catbuiscuit’s review provides an excellent description of this vintage beauty, I can only add that if you are seriously into perfume you owe it to yourself to seek it out.
TroyanUA – :
I am new to the world of perfumes, and am doing my own little study of the classics. I purchased a small sample of Chypre from TPC, and I so wanted to like it, but after trying it on, I just can’t! I found it a little too sharp and the best way I can describe it is “acidic,” if that makes any sense. Not sure if it is oakmoss or civet or something else that I am smelling – I am still learning to distinguish different scents – but whatever it is, that’s all I smell, even after several hours. I respect this fragrance for its historical significance, but unfortunately, I cannot love it.
Update – 11/10/11: I recently purchased a vintage sample of Guerlain’s Mitsouko and found that it smelled similar to Chypre to my nose, so I tried them side-by-side on my arm, and to my surprise, I found another side to Chypre that I liked! I still did not get the floral aspect that others have gotten, but I did get a warm cinnamon-and-woods note. I tried it on at night this time, rather than during the day. Not sure if that truly makes a difference, or if it’s all in my head, but I’m glad I gave it another chance!
zofasofa – :
I finally had the opportunity to sample this long-discontinued fragrance…and it was worth every cent! A wonderful, classic scent, elegant, warm, discreet and a tribute to the original Cote house. Chypre is my overall favorite group, and this truly is the original chypre; a brief citrus-bergamot opening, then into a warm and inviting floral heart made deep and luxurious by the oakmoss and patchouli. The civet is there but briefly and is not overpowering. Truly, truly wonderful!
dimanarius77 – :
I have one of the bottles from the 1988 re-release, ad am astounded at how much they go for on e-bay. I love it as a fresh, “green” scent. Whenever I’m in the mood to wear green Coty Chyphre is my go-to fragrance, I love how it is both light and lasting. I hope that Coty brings it back again.
etiwrukp – :
The fragrance that launched a genre: CHYPRE. That classic combo of bergamot-floral-oakmoss which has largely been devasted by petrochemical companies and thier rapacious chemical substitutes.
Despite my intense curiousity about this historical masterpiece it still took me some time to talk myself into forking over the $10 for a 1ml sample from TPC. However, if like me you are befuddled about what all the fuss is about after encountering all these modern patchouli-driven ‘pink’ chypres, it is a worthy learning tool.
I now know what a classic bergamot opening smells like (somewhat aldehydic and sparkly), followed by a rather nasty grin from the civet which thankfully is short l