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biobio – :
A Grandiflora Fragrances kreativ igazgatója Saskia Havekes (aki 20 évvel ezelőtt nyitotta meg virágboltját Sidney-ben), Ausztrália egyik legkreatívabb floristája.
2017-ben Bertrand Duchaufour-ral szövetkezve hozták létre a Boronia-t, amit óriási sikerrel mutattak be a firenzei Pitti Fragranze 2017-es rendezvényén.
A boronia (Boronia megastigma) Ausztráliában élő kis barna vadvirág ami Bertrand Duchaufour kompozíciójának középpontjában áll.
A botanikai leírások szerint virágai nagyon intenzív és vonzó illatúak, egy kis cserje, apró aromás levelekkel és
80-100 mm átmérőjű csésze alakú mély csokibarna virágszirmokkal, melyek belső része citromsárga.
A meleg és édes borónia természetes aromája ebben a kompozícióban egy krémesen simogató dohány-velúr illattal párosul,
gyantákkal, konyakkal, karamellel és érett gyümölcsökkel, lényegében egy ínyenc gyümölcsös velúr kompozíció.
Igazi pikantériáját a csersavas fekete tea frissessége, a széna-szerű jegyzetek, a dohánylevél fűszeres szárazsága adja a púderes, vajas karamell-velúron keresztül.
Eddigi tapasztalataim alapján, mindig más, alkalomadtán felbukkan a levendula, az ibolya és a frézia illata,
a kajszi és az érett szilva aromája is ebben az egyedi mámorító aromakomplexben.Sajnos a borónia illatát eddig nem sikerült megtapasztalnom…
ezért is tapogatoztam más, talán reá emlékeztető virágok irányába…
mph018speagoessenda – :
This is an interesting scent. That opening really clears the cobwebs. I thought for a minute I detected acetone. I imagine this would scare folk off and run to scrub it off.
Please hang in there and let it settle. It is now sweet and almost gourmand. The caramel really comes through on me quite strongly. This eases off quite a bit and now I get the alcohol, tobacco, suede and then fruity osmanthus.
I now love it. That alcohol, suede and osmanthus really hang in there but sadly only as a skin scent. Quite gorgeous. Very unisex.
Its a real shame the longevity and sillage are not great.
ищпвфт – :
Not a special fragrance on my skin, a bit too feminine w/the florals. I experienced poor sillage and longevity. Received a sample and not bottle worthy for me.
Xeroxdosdt – :
I wasn’t crazy about their Grandiflorum series, because I grew up climbing southern magnolia trees and love the smell of their blooms, which wasn’t to be found in those perfumes. So I wasn’t expecting too much when sampling this one – but I like it! It opens with ripe apricot, tea, an unknown floral (poisonous?), booze, and a tiny touch of tobaccco. The opening is quite fruity, but the main part of the scent is a floral, rounded out with touches of other notes. I haven’t smelled a boronia flower, but the floral in this reminds me of an osmanthus + the scent of those red and yellow vine flowers that grow all over Georgia (trumpet flowers?). They have a deep, musky sweet, slightly rotting aroma that attracts lots of hummingbirds. There’s something in this scent that reads as “poisonous” to me, and I’m not sure why. I don’t mean by that that it’s a bad scent. In the drydown, a lovely rich, buttery caramel starts to develop. Very enjoyable. And the projection/longevity is better than the lighter magnolia series.
Rollby – :
Hmm… Black pepper flavor cognac with tobacco, resin, and wood fillings.
I was very curious to try this blend because of:
1+ The pyramid is quite impressive since it includes apricots, cognac, caramel, and tobacco.
2+ Eddie Bulliqi wrote quite an impressive lines about it in “Pitti FRAGRANZE 2017: The BEST Perfumes!”, and MAT Yudov also mentioned it.
So i got the chance to try this although i didn’t find it in London Fenwick as “Grandiflora” mentioned in their website.
So, i wasn’t impressed at first when i applied it on my skin as it was kind of peppery, & slightly salty, but when i detected the myrrh few minutes in i kind of thought of giving it more time! so it is quite harsh since it has tobacco and wood filling as top notes beside the cognac, & resin. Now, i couldn’t detect any apricots, or caramel but i believe both are there but can’t be defined directly! both are playing a role of sweetens the harshness of the tobacco with the help of suede as the suede itself is quite rough with that wool texture that soaks the whole bitterness of the cognac! it’s a bit complex actually.
I honestly don’t know what real Boronia flower smells like but actually i like this blend! i can’t say it’s unusual but it is quite balanced and very addictive. Very sharp yet sensual and fits certain criteria of personalities. The close fragrance that could be similar to this blend is “Iridum” by DSH as both has the same cognac note with wood fillings.
Bottom line, i never thought that this fragrance was made by “Bertrand Duchaufour”, or maybe i read it in that article i mentioned above & i forgot that he was behind it, cause if i was aware it would have been one of the reasons that won’t make me curious to try it cause Bertrand lately became quite boring with the blends he make specially the one he made with his fellow noses “Geza Schoen”, & “Mark Buxton” under brand name “Renegades” in 2016! it was a real meh! but this one here isn’t bad though as it has an impressive aura when applying it on my skin in particular. I need to check it a bit more in order to see wither if i’m getting it or not.
Edit (7th Jan 2018) The more i try it, the more i adore it! the apricots are detected well along side with caramel forming a sweetness blast for the boozy tobacco. This is impressive and addictive.
wed3d4 – :
I don’t know about Bertrand these days. When I experience a Douchafour fragrance, I expect to always say, “Holy Mother of Awesome!” His creations haven’t made me feel that way in a long time. I’m afraid he FTC’d this one(For the Check). This composition is all about how many different ways can the Boronia flower bend while still remaining Boronia. One would surmise this to be a fun experiment and experience especially if you’re fond of florals being the centerpiece. This composition is grandiloquent in nature as exhibited by the white florals. The contortion begins right away as the pearly accord kinks itself in the bosom of green notes. The combination gives off a dripping plant effect. The bloom is then spiked with apricot showcasing a faux tropical side(just think frangipani). In this moment in time, everything is suspended in the tobacco gear. With serious concentration, you can smell the cognac note which is only used for coloring not the boozy effect. This is when you sniff your arm repeatedly asking yourself, “Yay or nay?” The fragrance itself doesn’t become better over time. It just becomes…
Now you’re just left with “floral stuff” on your arm. I didn’t expect to ride off into the sunset like this.
natarik – :
Where to try or buy? Sounds very interesting!
Camyil – :
Super unusual floral scent with so many different elements. All notes that you see are noticeable and blended perfectly!