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Leon8963948 – :
I’ve been privileged to sniff both the vintage 1950s and modern Baghari. They’re different animals, Baghari having suffered one of the most drastic reformulations (rather, a reinvention). While the current formulation is more akin to a Chanel No. 5 knockoff, being dominated by aldehydes and little else that is recognizable, the vintage has a character all its own and runs no risk of comparison, and especially not of suffering by comparison.
The original Baghari extrait opens in a dreadful cacophony (probably due to the age of my bottle) with aldehydes most noticeable, but settles down momentarily. I really don’t find the aldehydic quality of this fragrance that notable though, it just happens to be characteristic of so many vintages that it’s the first thing readily apparent, like the previews at a movie. There are multiple clear phases, which I may describe more fully once I’ve tested it further. The most noticeable within about 7-10 minutes is the emergence of an ambery sweetness, something I can best describe as nectary lilac, and even nuances of tropical dried fruit. This may or may not be the sweet, woody vetiver. I’m reminded of mango and even banana. After this appear something like anise and narcissus, lending a spiciness that hints at spiced-rum cocktails.
The overall fruity-earthy effect here is very similar to vintage Guerlain Parure, only less powdery. Parure is light green; Baghari is dark jewel-toned. There’s almost an incense accord that helps explain the darkness present in the current Baghari, though it’s more subtle – subliminally masterful – in the vintage. It’s as if the new one were re-created forensically, the formula having been lost, and the outcome just a shadow of the perfume’s original glory. Most of the notes I’m describing may or may not be actually there, probably just my imagination, but if they aren’t, this perfume is definitely more than the sum of its parts.
The bottle for the extrait is striking in its art-deco simplicity and black label with Piguet’s characteristic sans-serif font. Mine is the clear crystal, 15 or 30 mL, just like the picture at the top right on this page. It’s effortlessly chic and stands out among the other flowery, brush-stroked perfume bottles of the same decade. If Baghari were a woman, she is both sultry and down-to-earth, not too focused on her own beauty but neither self-denigrating. She doesn’t hide her vices; interestingly she is respected all the more for them. She makes even the simplest clothes look breathtaking, wearing them with comfort and confidence. She’s approachable by many but treasures few close friends.
Some perfumes sink into oblivion as they age, their rareness as unimpressive as their quality. When they’re gone, they’re gone, hardly missed. Not so with Baghari. The original Baghari is disappearing fast, but the prices are rising as it grows ever rarer. No matter that she “came back” into production. The old one is leaving but hardly forgotten and hardly mistaken for the new. I found a small amount of this for a steal. I’m well aware of the value. Needless to say, I will treasure it among my very few vintages.
world4anger – :
Thank you for finally getting a listing for vintage Baghari.
VINTAGE EDT Baghari & Parfum
Canister bottle splash, screw top lid.
Vintage Notes:
aldehydes, bergamot, orange blossom, lemon, rose, lilac, ylang-ylang, lily of the valley, jasmine, bourbon vetiver, benzoin, musk, amber, vanilla.
Parfum:
Brighter than Vintage Edt. The Aldehydes, Lemon, Bergamot give it a bright and fresh opening with rose, lilac and orange blossom mingling in to add a gorgeous feminine floral.It switches from a lemon aldehyde rose to a lilac bergamot, to a rose, jasmine and lilly of the valley. No deep base or animalics noted in the opening of the perfume. A warm furry musk (like in my sin) comes in to warm the base but never out of control and well restrained.
The EDT is a much warmer base note driven version than the parfum, or its the status of deterioration with the EDT bottle I have. But combined with the Parfum, as I believe vintage scents were designed to be worn in harmony- the cologne, edt and parfum to approximate the proper way it was intended by the designer. The EDT provides the warmth, and is similar to the cologne, which I find more sweeter than the EDT, and the Parfum supplies the strong top notes and middle florals while cradled by the EDT & Colognes warmth in the background.
A waxy candle like aldehyde opening with a candied or syrupy citrus and the boozy vetiver gives a vintage warmth and stature about this Piguet. Its filled with the nitromusks of old, like the vintage chanel no5 parfum is the way I can reference it. A smooth touch of ambergris runs thru the base.
Vintage Baghari is a warm sexy vintage, that is ladylike, and is the kind of fragrance that is the lipstick and hair done kind of feel. A classy woman would wear this, in all its incarnations, where vintage Baghari cologne is sweet enough to be worn by a young lady.
Commentary:
Everyone comments on the animalic side of Baghari, and I feel it needs some perspective. It provides depth and warmth to the composition. Its used masterfully so its hardly a wild polecat on a stick. Its much softer in use than lets say the animalics of a current Salome. The animalics in Salome are much much stronger than what is found in Vintage Baghari.
In the Piguet vintage line up you have the green, leathery light floral allure of Bandit, showing the world its strength and counterculture attitude and the Femme Fatale explosion of the creamy white floral cradled by succulent fruits that is Fracas. Baghari is the warm, elegant, charming Lady of the manor that vacations in the south of France and shoppes on Paris’ Montaigne Avenue. Visa is the sexy jetsetter drenched in heady jasmine and unapologetic sexy animalic basenotes that was probably one of the most opulent parfums before Joy or Bal a Versailles took the mantle.
The Piguet house was decidedly much more wearer friendly, modern, and approachable than the other french houses at the time, Caron and Guerlain. One thing is for sure, whichever identity you chose to wear, there was a touch of thrill and sexiness to all his creations, yet none of them ever crossed into vulgarity.
I think if you are looking to get the feel of vintage Baghari, I believe Carons Montaigne (1987) captures its direction magnificently. Its more voluptuous, but the sexy, put together sweetness in a casual, but structured way would be the closest thing still on the market. I look forward to testing the current version of Baghari someday. A true ladylike fragrance.
Дедуля – :
Thank you(!) Fragrantica for finally listing the original Baghari, not just the 2006 version (a completely different beast).
I’ll repeat what I said there about the original –
“Vintage Baghari is indeed similar to Arpège, a bit fuzzier and earthier – deep, creamy, warm and sexy.”
With today’s IFRA restrictions, we’ll never see its like again. 🙁