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region 09 – :
Make no mistake this is not a chypre. Its also not very avant gard. Comme des garcons fragrances are a lot more about avant gardism. I love Monsieur Astier and his works but this one proves he probably should stick to his trademark stuff which is creating the smoothest wood, leather, patch and smoke combos. Dont get me wrong, this is not unpleasant but it smells like it could have been done by tens of other designer houses. I think the mixture of citruses and heavy notes like cocoa, tobacco and leather is a bit odd.
svaikaz36 – :
A gorgeous modern masculine chypre-like composition from the very underrated Micallef line. This perfume opens briefly with muted notes of citrus, grapefruit and bergamot. The heart is also rather fast but one can detect tobacco, cacao and incense. It quickly settles into its masculine powdery base of ambergris, leather and tonka bean. Masculine leaning with moderate projection and sillage and very good longevity. Clean, refined, understated, unique and elegant. Enjoy!
flopexina – :
This is all about smooth and light but dominant slightly sweet tobacco, intensive cacao and very strong tonka beans. This is equally strong to tobacco note. I’m not impressed, it’s decent, safe, year round scent suitable for day and night but definitely is better than many new releases. Quality stuff. I also get very mild abstract citrusy notes, I can’t detect specifically bergamot or grapefruit. The incense emerges some minutes later. There’s also mild leather and noticeable ambergis with a dusty vibe at the background.
Performance is moderate overall and it feels unisex leaning slightly to masculine scents.
Edit
After about 3 hours it’s a nice tonka bean skin scent..
hurik – :
I couldn’t resist the price on this one so I got myself 30ml without even thinking.
Does open quite masculine with the citrus but then the drydown is just fantastic and more unisex – very warm and sweet and a bit musky (guess thats the ambergris?)
Its funny reading the reviews being so varied. It definitely changes quite a lot in one wearing so I imagine chemistry also plays a big part.
Its unique without being so modern its unwearable.
RUST123 – :
M. Micallef Avant Garde opens with a burst of fresh citrus, but within minutes it begins fading into the background as the tobacco moves front-and-center in this fragrance…and here is where things get interesting.
Some would say this is a sweet tobacco fragrance and I wouldn’t disagree since tonka bean and cacao bring forth a lightly sweetened quality. However, my initial reaction was that Avant Garde was a smoky tobacco scent until I realized that incense was pulling the tobacco in that direction.
To me, this is a fresh-dry tobacco with the sweet notes and incense doing battle to bring the tobacco to the wearers attention. It is a well-crafted sweet-tobacco/smoky tobacco scent with tonka, cacoa and incense playing a supporting role. I do pick-up some leather and ambergris well into the drydown, but both stay in the background.
Longevity and projection are both moderate on my skin. I feel this fragrance is best suited for Spring or Fall evenings. Okay, I admit this fragrances can be a bit challenging, but I really liked this fragrance when I first purchased it back in 2014 and, over the years, I enjoy and appreciate it more and more.
In closing, I feel that Avant Garde is perfected suited for the upcoming Fall weather and, although somewhat unisex, I feel that it is a better fit for a more serious professional gentleman. But that’s my take on this fragrance.
venya1 – :
Very unisex, albeit on the masculine side. Never overbearing, never heavy, but a lovely mix of leather, tonka and insence from the start.
Unfortunately this went away very quickly on my skin, left now 2 hours later is a faint soft insence/vanilla (extremely reminicent of Alkemia Philtre d’amour which had me a bit confused until I realized it was the tonka beans)).
Yervand-Galstyan555 – :
Some people here forget that this scent is an 2006 entry and was way AVANT GARDE for that time.
I still love to wear this little gem. this gives me the perfect break from all the trash that have been produced the last couple of years…..many of them bespoke here.
andronanri – :
Le Conformiste
I doubt if any avantgarde-with whatever morality,immorality or amorality-be eager to have this perfume in his rotation.Carolina Herrera’s Chic has done the spicy melon(yes!the run-of-the-mill MELON) much better than this Micallef and Lanvin’s Avantgarde is (faaaaar)truer to life representation of the concept. Check out Micallef’s Royal Vintage, it’s really regal, even better than Aventus but their Avantgarde is one of the many.
lassamara – :
Tried a sample vial of this fragrance yesterday. I really hoped to experience a true avant-garde expereince something that amazes me twith notes or a scent combination I have never come across but unfortunately this wasn’t the case. I have smelled something like this before.
The quality and longevity of this scent is amazing and I get a good 8-10 hours on my skin with a noticable sillage. I wonder why everybody mention the tonka bean and tobacco in this one while true ambergris is really dominant througout the wearing. It does have a dirty Tobacco and raw hide leather note but I would wish for somehting more light with these notes. It is a dark fragrance and has a almost animalic appeal to it.
I’m not sure if I like it or detest it because it is not something I would Wear and it doesn’t please me to think other people smelling like this. It is not an exeptional fragrance and I think that If you like this scent you could bennefit more from other fragrance choices but it’s all up to you.
Overall Rating: 4/10
/ /
D1mon63 – :
one of the best fragrances , “cacao” based
first you will feel a sweet smell who it is like honey as well as cacao
after several minutes , the fragrance will be dark and smokey because of tobacco and leather .
this time is very chic . I enjoy every moment of this perfume .
finally after About 20 min , the dark and smoky and also bitter smell will be weakly and And cocoa prevails
if you like guerlain L’Instant EDT or EDP , I thought this one is better than L’Instant
یه عطر با بیس پوست کاکائو که نظر طرفداران گرلن اینستنت چه تویلت و چه پرفیوم رو مثل آب خوردن جلب می کنه
از همون اول بویی مثل شیرینی عسل با حس تلخی و ترشی بی نهایت خوشبوی پوست کاکائو مواجه میشید
بعد از مدت کوتاه حدود 2 دقیقه عطر حس تلخ تر و دودی و تاریک تری به خودش میگیره بخاطر تنباکو و چرم
خیلی شیک و خوش بو هست .از لحظه لحظه این عطر لذت میبرم
بعد از حدودا 5 دقیقه بوی فلفل صورتی رو میشه احساس کرد که اینجا قید نکردن ولی من خیلی خوب حس می کنم گرچه چند دقیقه ای مهمون ما خواهد بود ولی در همین مدت کم هم عطر رو پرحرارت و جذاب تر نشون میده
حدود چند دقیقه همین طور روایح قبلی که ذکر کردم هی سویچ میشن یعنی یه لحظه بوی واضح تنباکو رو متوجه میشید و بعد از چند ثانیه بوی چرم واضح تر میشه و . . .خیلی جالبه
در حین این رقابت سخت ، لوبیای تونکا یه شیرینی ملایمی رو در عطر اضافه میکنه تا تو این وضعیت شیر تو شیر حوصله آدم سر نره
دقیق نمی دونم ولی رایحه پچولی رو هم در لابلای این تاریکی میتونم حس کنم که خیلی ضعیفه ولی عطر رو باظراوت تر کرده که حس کمی مرطوب و گیاهی خودش رو به صورت خیلی ضعیف و ملایم در دل عطر قرار داده
هر چه بیشتر از عمر عطر میگذره رایحه پوست کاکائو بیشتر خودشو نشون میده و در این پروسه ، روایح تاریک و تلخ و دودی ، بخور و چرم و تنباکو ضعیف تر خواهند شد
بعد از حدود 20 دقیقه از اسپری عطر ، اون حالت تلخی روایح قبل به شکل ضعیف تر حضور خواهند داشت و شیرینی که مثل عسل بود قوت میگیره ولی اصلا دل آدمو نمیزنه
همین طور تا آخر ادامه پیدا میکنه منتها در اواخر عمر عطر اون حس تلخ هم تاحدودی محو میشه وشما فقط بوی پوست کاکائو رو حس خواهید کرد
اگر به پوست کاکائو علاقه دارید حتما باید در کالکشنتون باشه این عطر چون بهترین عطر بر پایه پوست کاکائو هست که تا حالا استشمام کردم حتی بهتر از گرلن ها
SopLuldemedom – :
Opens quite sweet with a hint of bergamot. I also detect some watery notes that remind me of watermelon. Then the herbal and sweet tobacco warms up. After that, cacao and powders are added. Lastly, a hint of incense is added to the mix. I could not detect any grapefruit or leather on my skin. The drydown is tobacco on a watermelon base.
Sillage is soft on me, longevity moderate.
Not sure what to think of this scent. I enjoy the sweet and soft tobacco, but the watermelon base below it all is kind of strange. Have never smelled a combination like this before. It’s both fresh and warm, very odd. Definitely unisex.
SeepWalker – :
Eeeee,,, this gave me a noseburn and almost a gag right off 1st smell.
Then a headache – it’s certainly not lemon but a very strange sort of greenish note with the faintest hint of dirtied-lime all supported by a brash, prickly raw tobacco note.
As a lover of TFord’s Tobacco Vanille, this came as real shock. It takes a good while to settle too, the sharpness of both ‘citrus’ and ‘tobacco’ then slowly but surely start to soften 10 minutes in (after a warm breath or 2, so to cheat!!)
It becomes a quieter limony-lime and then, dusty pale cocoa slowly begins to creep in with warming but very faint tonka.
Disappointing in all aspects, I was looking for tart, lemon sweet-cream followed by honeyed, tonka-enriched sweet tobacco and I frankly got a horror show,, quite the opposite namely.
Ladies be warned, this is not a pleasant introduction at all! I think I’ll be trying feminine-tobacco scents from now on!
Scent: 2/10.
Quality: 6/10.
wqi586speagoessenda – :
A very dark fragrance, but definitely unisex. Opens up with an almost harsh blast of leather, which slowly gives way to sweet pipe tobacco. I couldn’t find neither grape nor cacao in this, but I swear there’s hints of liquorice and – something cherry like? Also in the drydown, a musk/myrrh is always present in the background – I’m not really sure if it’s due to the ambergris or a mix with incense. A very complex fragrance, which oozes quality but is a little too – tadaa! – avant garde for me. Strangely, when I think about it I could imagine someone like David Bowie wearing this in his younger years 🙂
katerinka1987 – :
100ml edp 235 تومن
و tester 100ml edp175تومن
bigGmaste – :
Unisex; sweetly laced tobacco, but not sickenly sweet. Mild tobacco of the loose, pipe variety found in tobacco shops.Very well blended as are all M. Micallef scents are. Projection: not much, stays close to you, like a soft scent blanket and longevity is good, although light at the drydown, which comes amazingl
Add: I would say that silage is good although stays close to the skin. Will linger on clothing longer. The grapefruit note is all but smothered under all the other notes. Never saw it coming or going.
compute – :
A classic fragrance, elegant, with moderate hints of leather and tobacco. Almost absent citrus notes, while I perceive lavender note that it is note listed in the perfume pyramid. Recklessly high price for a moderate longevity and sillage. Nothing new, not for me.
faton – :
Unisex; sweetly laced tobacco, but not sickenly sweet. Mild tobacco of the loose, pipe variety found in tobacco shops.Very well blended as are all M. Micallef scents are. Projection: not much, stays close to you, like a soft scent blanket and longevity is good, although light at the drydown, which comes amazingly fast.
sli953speagoessenda – :
I bought this scent and I paid a lot money
simply I can say this scent is less than normal and not worth its price
Катерина – :
کاملا حق با شماس و من توصیه میکنم دیگر محصولات این برند مثل ” اسپسی”..”استایل”..”جویرل” و یکی از کارای گروه “عود” رو حتما تست کنید تا به اوج هنر این زوج موفق پی ببرید…
azrail1 – :
First of all I really appreciate whole line of the M.Micallef Brand.
Everything is in high level of quality.
Rare material, natural essence, Costly price and …
about this beautiful painting:
Actually I expect something Smoky and dark!
but it’s a warm delightful sweet fragrance.
Everything expertly mixed and balanced together.
the cacao playing main role in this beautiful panting!
you can smell cacao from top note until base note.
It start whit freshness of citrusy top note whit hint of cacao and develop to smokiness of tobacco and elegant note of leather & incense mixed whit cacao.
and warm base of tonka bean and amber finishes this wonderful painting!
and it is as unconventional and modern as it name suggest.
the projection and logevity is good.
but it really made for a real gentle.
اول از همه م واقعا از این برند فوق العده خوشم اومد.
واقعا کارهاشون فوق العادع با کیفیت و تک هستن.
همه چیز در بالا ترین مرحله ی کیفیته حتی قیمت ها! 😀
خوب حالا برگردیم سراغ این تابلوی نقاشی زیبا.
راستش من انتظار یه عطر دودی و تاریک رو داشتم اما این یه عطر گرم و شیرینه.
اما همه چیز متناسب هست و باعث سردرد و خستگی شما نمیشه.
کاکائو نقش اصلی رو تو این عطر داره.
شما تو تمامی نت ها کاکائو رو حس میکنید.
عطر اولش با یه نت مرکباتی با طراوت باز میشه به همراه کمی کاکائو
و بعدش کاکائو به همراه ترکیب ظریفی از بخور و چرم سر کار میاد که خیلی ترکیب دلنشین و خوشمزه ای داره.
در اخرم دانه تونکا به همراه عنبر و کاکائو خود نمایی میکنن.
من خیلی لذت بردم از این عطر.
فقط یه مقدار زیادی هزینه ی عطر بالاست که واسه اهل دل مسئله ای نیست.
عالی بود این عطر.
BUY-CIALIS-cilkdoma – :
Wonderful, mild cocoa incense perfume that develops across the spectrum from a citrusy start, to a leathery middle and finishing with a delightful bit of powder. At each stage the cocoa and incense are magnificently supported by the other note. Never gourmandish or “too much” in any respect, unusual but not shocking, could be worn any time. Like three great perfumes in one bottle.
For a point of comparison, imagine three successful layerings of Dior Homme Intense (new formula) but more restrained and tasteful.
ленивец – :
عطر اقل من العادي ولا يستحق ثمنه
зероид – :
This is not my type of scent at all. To me, this scent is very herbal and very tobacco’ey. It’s a little harsh and spicy at the beginning, and only if I try really hard, I get that nice citrusy freshness. Then it gets softer and powdery clean iris and some cocao. This is also when the scent becomes more leathery. No big dose of lemon here, and I wish tonka bean were sweeter. Anyway, the scent remains thick, warm, and manly throughout a day but no longer considered spicy.
Well, I thought I’d try something outside my comfort zone, and you know, I should have stayed to what I like. Micallef Avant-Garde is defnitely not going to make it to my favorite list, but I see a potential. I just need to spend more time with it.
Shipilov9 – :
A very kind member here sent me a miniature of Avant-garde.
To my nose, the opening reminds me of Dune for Men: sweet sirupy citrus, very light and soft. I could imagine this very well on a woman too.
I am used to quite hard and edgy perfumes, so for me Avant-garde seems above all comforting, as Tigerlilian put it, and optimistic.
I don’t get any tobacco, leather or cocoa on my skin. If you really look for it, there is something a bit in that direction, but if you don’t, it is a dryer version of Dune. Which is not a bad thing to have on you at all !
aleksey123 – :
A sensual scent to set my heart all aflutter! Avante-Garde is truly that indeed–contemporary and edgy with a gorgeously warm citrus opening, rather masculine to start with a very scant aquatic/melon undertone that occasionaly glistens through ’til the end.
As Avante-Garde warms up, I get some dry cacao and leather which is a little rough but at the same time, seductive. Then the leather starts to soften and smoke with a hypnotic curl of sweet tobacco…
Thicker it becomes with the resinous depth that tolu balsam offers–pure, earthy, spiced deliciousness. The scent of tolu balsam I think is similar to palm or date sugar–big, darks chunks of gritty sweetness, like a really dirty and rich clump of conventional brown sugar but with some dark yellow, burnt grassy edges. Tonka contributes some smoky hay-like vanilla that accents the sensual, leathery drydown just perfectly.
If you love leather fragrances, Avante-Garde is a must try–comforting, strong and naturally edgy.
Renat78 – :
A male scent you say? Well for me it morphs into a bombshell of a unisex fragrance! Oriental spicy, yes, I get that. A grand entrance is made in the beginning with orris(root) and sweet, heady, rich tobacco (reminds me of walking into a top- notch tobacco shop I used to frequent in downtown Ansbach, Germany …) mmmmm). Tonka beans, incense (and perhaps some leather to give it some masculinity) seal this delectable olfactory dream. Don’t really get the citrus but it’s nice to know it’s there; same thing with the cacao: I have to really try hard to detect it. It is very elusive. I do get vanilla but maybe that’s the cacao.
Luckyscent.com lists the notes as:
Bergamot, grapefruit, cocoa bean, tobacco, incense, Russian leather, tonka bean, grey amber.
Very well done.
P.S. At drydown a dead ringer for Baldessarini Ambre` mixed with Bvlgari Black.
Саня 888 – :
This scent has good lasting power. When it opened I could really smell the cacao in this, but not your usual gourmand scent there’s something still kind of dirty about, which is great because as it dries down it really turned into a warmer more clean scent on me. It’s a nice scent, but I go for something a little more dramatic. If your looking for something different, yet safe than this is the scent for you.
jua968Bessinepome – :
The main notes of Avant Garde are lemon, yellow flag, iris, cocoa, tobacco, incense, tonkabeans, tolubalm.
From these I did not expect it to be quite as sweet as it actually is. It is supposed to be unisex, but comes off somewhat slightly more feminine to my nose (but that seems the trend for masculine scents recently). It does however get more masculine as it moves along. It’s also got an unexpected fruity opening, with the top notes reminiscent of watermellon sweets. I am not familiar with the yellow flag note, so cannot really fairly comment on it, but my guess is that’s were the fruityness derives from. It then moves swiftly into more of what I was expecting with the cocoa, tobacco, incense combo warming the fragrance up nicely. It becomes more and more appealing as the notes develop. However there is always a slight odd “lipsticky” type scent that permeates giving the whole composition an odd slant (my own skin chemistry could be the culpruit for this though!). The dry down is comforting balsamy and vanilla like from the tonka and tolu resin. All in all, I believe the fragrance perfectly named as the scent is certainly an unexpected and odd chocolate fragrance. But ultimately well blended and unique. I highly recommend sampling before buying as it’s highly unusual but perfect if you are looking for something different and, well, ‘avant-garde’ !