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lisenok – :
I bought a splash bottle of the edt blindly, but it was not quite what I expected.
Looking at the notes, and seeing that this is an Italian perfume from the early 90s, I imagined a deep, honeyed oriental chypre in the vein of La Perla, with a heavy smoky-animalic touch. Imagine my surprise when my first association from sniffing the bottle was instead a shower gel that my husband used more than 15 years ago…
I did read puppynose’s review about the “aquatic coolness”, which is a very good and accurate description, but somehow my mind had been focusing more on the listed notes and my inner idea of what this perfume would be like, so I didn’t really understand it. I don’t like aquatics either and I was quite disappointed at first.
I tried it again the next day and went out. It was a sunny day in late February, with temperatures just above zero. As I kept smelling the perfume wafting around me, I was able to put aside the shower gel image and enjoy it a little more. I don’t percieve it as an oriental, but more like a honey-rose/geranium-patchouli based chypre; not very heavy, but rather light and airy. I want to say that there’s the typical coriander spice in there too, but maybe that’s just my imagination. I notice a lot of galbanum, but I don’t really get much incense. The castoreum is there, but Allegri does not feel overly animalic. It feels like a clean chypre with just a little sprinkle of something dirtier underneath.
I agree that it feels very cool – which makes me believe that this might be a good perfume to wear in summer. Makes me think of an early morning walk somewhere by the seaside, with a light breeze in the air and warm sunshine, and I can imagine that it will feel refreshing during mid-day heat.
I need to give this some more time before I decide how I feel about it and what to to with it. I think I like it, it’s just that I expected something completely different…
Edit:
It’s May, and we are having a couple of quite warm days, so I’m wearing it again and I can say it’s working a lot better now. Still a cool, fresh opening, but then the honey and rose come through in a more typical way, like we know them from other chypres. I would advise this for summer, when you want to wear an animalic chypre but are afraid that it will be too heavy. This feels cool and clean, but still has a light animalic warmth that will not feel suffocating.
PS: If anyone knows if there is a difference between the edt and the edp, please let us know!
barbitura – :
The beauty of my favorite flowers with all well done base notes- not a poorly done one in the bunch. An Italian treasure. What at first puzzled me was that I thought I detected a touch of what smells nearly like an aquatic coolness, but there are no aquatic notes- I now believe it is a fraction of the honey- the higher notes of the honey. It it not any thing like a soapy lily or typical nasty synthetic aquatic chemical smell. As I am not a fan of aquatics,It almost put me off at first- but I’m glad I gave it a chance, as it is a luxurious oriental with a cool facet to it that does not overshadow the rich smoky depth of this fragrance. Although honey is listed as a base note, it does seem this cool moist characteristic is in part a component of the honey. There are also dry cool spice aspects.