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qnm311Negeltzex – :
Tobacco Rose is to me a gorgeous nuclear rose bomb. I’ve got to apply it with caution, one spray max, and it radiates a beautiful, intense red rose with an earthy vibe, something like warm pavement smells when the rain first touches it. I get no tobacco at all. It really is strong on my skin; one day I made the mistake of applying two sprays, and was mercilessly strangled all day. And it lasts and lasts, and doesn’t let up…. One bottle may be enough for two lifetimes. If you love roses, you might love this perfume.
DavidBQlo – :
Tobacco Rose was my first try from Papillon and to be honest I was a bit disappointed – I was hoping for a lush beeswaxy tobacco rose but I mostly just get rose. Reading the other reviews, I seem to be one of the folks with the chemistry that makes this scent smell extremely simple. On me, it’s a mildly jammy rose, with a bit of a bergamot type topnote that makes it smell like a tea rose. Underneath the dominant rose, I get a geranium-like powdery pink scent, and the green and sour note of oak moss. On my skin, the animalic notes and the rich Peru balsam never appear, so Moore’s simulated tobacco accord fails to come together. I do feel that this sour rose could be easily worn by a man. Overall – meh.
qwoo – :
Rich, syrupy rose with geranium and hay absolute. It’s a little animalic, but overall it reads as a very complex rose soliflore. If you love rose, and I mean rose, then this is a must try. This is luscious and photorealistic. Sillage and longevity are good, around 5-6 hours (although not quite what you’d expect from an extrait). This scent kind of brings to mind old rose chypres without the chypre element. The most wearable Papillon perfume I’ve tried.
I’d say there are tobacco nuances, but there’s no overt or strong tobacco.
jensidean – :
ON my friend, it is rose and tobacco and it’s lovely. On me, I get pretty much pure Ombre Rose: a lovely but powdery rose scent without a lot of difference. It’s so close to Ombre Rose that I think about the $5 bottle I used to have and can’t help but compare this negatively. Full dry down is a faint but amazing cedar based men’s scent. You nearly can’t smell it after an hour but now and then I’d get a waft of something delicious, cedar-y and clean. Love the dry down. But the middle smells so Drugstore, that it’s not worth the price. Will pass, but might use up that sample
Deroxlixqf – :
The base of this perfume, made of ambergris and rose, is something driving me crazy for its beauty.
I wish someone would make a whole perfume with this smell
kamuz – :
beautiful scent, lasts well on your clothes too
titan74 – :
In the opening this is a beautiful green earthy rose; once it begins to dry down the beeswax becomes very prominent on my skin…more prominent than rose even. If it stayed as it is in the opening it would be on my by list. However as is, I think I can pass…I may get another sample one day, but I will not be rushing to buy a FB. I think this is a totally unisex rose.
uggsit1115Z – :
Slightly jammy rose and oak moss., which makes it a little bitter, and adds a slightly dank quality to it. I don’t get much in the way of tobacco. I like it but I actually find the rose aspect a bit too sweet and bland. Will likely use my decant but not hankering for a full bottle. I tried Nova Chakra perfume recently and that one is what I expected TR to smell like-much more pronounced tobacco and a brighter rose.
vetkasakkyrj – :
Earthy green sweet rose. I didn’t pick up on tobacco on my skin. The sweetness and the type of rose is similar to that in Leutens Rose Majeste. A very slight incense is detected in combination. Strong and lasts long.
padre87 – :
Rose’s complex olfactory make-up gives it flexibility but expectation can get in the way of an easy range of motion. The person looking for a sunshiny soliflor won’t necessarily dig an earthy rose/patchouli or a mossy rose chypre. And there are assumptions to navigate. Dewy roses imply innocence and boozy roses seduce. A garden rose is Elizabeth Bennet but a candied rose is Lolita. A misjudged tone creates the wrong impression and drama ensues. The stakes are high with a symbolically loaded flower.
So what sort of rose should we expect from a fetching English perfumer nestled in the countryside? A blushing rose? A sundress and parasol number? Remember before you answer: this is the perfumer who would a year later give us Salome, the fire-breathing jasmine.
Bucking any expectation of gentility, Tobacco Rose lives large. The top notes come bounding out of the bottle and create an exaggerated flower. It is oversized but proportionate enough to avoid caricature. Tobacco Rose is a dypso amber-rose with a green streak though the center to keep it steady. The splash of acidity brings out the jammy balsamic heart and introduces the bit of tension that keeps the honeyed ambery base in line. Creating a floral perfume is a particular type of fiction and Tobacco Rose tells a great story.
The aromas of rose and fresh tobacco go hand in hand. The lemony aspects of rose match the sappy bitterness of tobacco and create a lush woody floral accord, as in Sophia Grojsman’s Beautiful for Estée Lauder. * Liz Moores says she looked closely at various tobacco absolutes but opted to build her own accord. She uses hay, rose geranium and a touch of galbanum to recreates the live, sultry scent of fresh tobacco leaves. Tobacco matches the bright, leafy rose of the topnotes and folds smoothly into the waxy balsamic base.
Tobacco Rose isn’t retro in the least, but neither is it ‘modern’ in the sleek, streamlined sense of the word. It is the successor to the big rose chypres of the 1980s, all of which have had their wingspans clipped and their confidence shaken by the IFRA. When I wear Tobacco Rose, I feel like I’m letting out a breath I’ve been holding since the the ’80s rose chypres began their long goodbye. Moores seems too well-versed in perfume history not to have at least considered Tobacco Rose’s relationship to these bad-assed chypres.
Moores hit the ground running in 2014 with a bold perspective on classical perfumery’s Big Three Flowers. Anubis’s gasoline-jasmine was ferocious and Angélique’s melancholic iris was introspective. Tobacco Rose strikes a different tone–as bombastic as Anubis, but less threatening. It shares Angélique’s lushness but forgoes the moodiness. It’s the most approachable fragrance of the trio but doesn’t settle for less. It aims for pleasure and hits its target dead-on.
* I’m from a small part of Connecticut called the Tobacco Valley. The summer air near the fields was filled the scent of tobacco growing under shade-cloth in the fields and curing in the barn. It was green and sappy but also woody and floral. It’s a pervasive sweet scent with only a passing resemblance to dried smoking tobacco.
(from scenthurdle.com)
mikeau – :
Out of all the Papillon fragrances, I think this one is the most masculine… which is weird considering all the rose that’s in it. Although I am far from being a girly-girl and have owned quite a lot of men’s fragrances, this is far too masculine on my skin. I would, however, LOVE to be in cahoots with a man who was wearing this.
I don’t know exactly what makes this too masculine on me as I have happily worn perfumes with all of these notes in them and not had an issue.
This makes a beautiful, masculine cologne… just too masculine for this girl.
nbd827Diobtetty – :
Throughout perfume sampling, I have made the discovery that tobacco in a scent can make or break it for me. With a unisex scent, if it has tobacco in it, most scents suck up the tobacco on my husband’s skin and leave the floral/other notes, and on my skin it’s the complete opposite. Same goes for leather notes, those stay on my skin while my body sucks up only the good stuff.
This one, Tobacco Rose, is the first perfume that kept its rose note on my skin for the whole duration and the tobacco is but a side note that gives it the animalistic edge. I consider putting it on my wishlist as it has the sultry velvety feeling that none of my perfumes hold.
Undegebeecino – :
The opening is a somewhat harsh rose. Wait about an hour, the drydown of tobacco and rose is simply fantastic. One of the best drydowns I’ve ever experienced.
Tihanov2000 – :
A lush, velvety, extremely sensual, crimson rose. I smell moist hay, sticky balsams, a civet-like animalic note, and honey-dipped rose petals. Tobacco Rose is a celebration of the night. It is a perfume I would wear if I were going to see a show at the Moulin Rouge. It makes me picture velvet curtains, elegant black dresses, and skin illuminated by candle light.
Tobacco Rose stayed on my skin for 14 hours before I went to sleep for the night. A few hours in, the hay note faded, and the perfume headed down the rose confiture road. I happen to like jammy roses. What sets this one apart from the rest is the ever-present animalic note that gives it a certain edge.
I adore the entire Papillon collection and wear every single one of them. I crave them. While Anubis, Salome, and Angelique are equally beautiful and sensual in their own ways, when I wear Tobacco Rose, I start having thoughts like, “I am a beautiful woman!” There is just something about this juice that makes me want to get my hair, makeup, and nails done and just bask in the glory of being a woman. It’s so unlike me to talk like that! This velvety red scent will be perfect for the turning of the leaves and the crisp breezes. Dark rose perfection.
Update: Six months later and was STILL craving this beauty. Had to make it mine.
xeba69 – :
This is like tauer’s incense rose but tamed down citrus and incense replaced w a more subtle tobacco. Very interesting composition and it is growing on me very fast
Edit update** so I’m going to stick with this smelling similar to incense rose, because it’s the same rose note. There’s more depth with this composition. They are both fighting for first place right now Bc they are both very well rounded compositions with very high quality. There’s a overall pleasing quality of rose, tobacco and incense here with a little citrus to brighten things up. I think the ambergris realllly sets this one off guys. I have decided I am going to pick up a bottle 🙂
IpsyMan – :
This makes me weak at the knees. I like a dark rose, pared with balsams or incense or spices. However, such scents do not make for easy wearing, and command a sense of occasion. Tobacco Rose, however, is a dark rose that I would wear anywhere and any time. It is velvety, generous, deep, shadowy, sweet and smells of the very best quality.
I am surprised that others find the sillage and longevity anything but big. This lasts extremely well and radiates nicely, although it is true that it does become a (potent) skin scent in its final hours – ideal for when someone is breathing in the scent of your neck at the end of the day.
This instantly became a must-have for me. In fact, this was the one that prompted me to sell most of my wardrobe (Lutens, Chanel, Ford…) because I wanted this.
FeEfenoblof – :
Tobacco Rose is magical, I keep ordering samples of it. It is sultry and full-bottle worthy for me.
The first spray on my skin is rose, it is a really potent rose. Sweet, green roses almost like a rosebush. I smell geranium blending with the rose, it is not listed here but it is on the official website.
As the fragrance progresses, it becomes more complex, the earthy oakmoss makes its presence known, the fragrance becomes more sensual. The rose is dark, sultry and earthy.
I am not able to detect hay on my skin, I imagine it to be blending with the oakmoss.
The animalic ambergris caresses the rose and causes a salty aroma. I smell beeswax too.
The fragrance is unbelievably seductive. I love the way Tobacco Rose melds with my skin, I love to wear this, it lasts about 7 hours on my skin and sillage becomes a skin scent after a few hours.
Tobacco Rose is unique to my nose, and it is completely unisex.
A must test for rose lovers.
Notes from the official website: Bulgarian Rose, Rose De Mai, Geranium, Oakmoss, Beeswax, Hay, Ambergris
Vektorian – :
Oh yes, I really like this. Rose by the bucket load that is tempered with tobacco, oak moss and softened with beeswax and ambregris. There is only a touch of tobacco with this rose but its there. Its had a transforming effect on this voluptuous rose. There is an earthiness. Its a sophisticated and chic rose. Moderate sillage and longevity.
suslin – :
On the opening I can smell a big lush red rose though I get no tobacco whatsoever within the scent.
Now the rose is front and centre to this composition though facets of the smell have been changed with other notes that subtlety alter the smell. And this makes the scent very interesting especially if you love roses.
The hay and moss notes give the rose a subtle earthy dryness whilst the ambergris adds a slight salty sweetness. And I believe the beeswax just rounds out the sweetness of the overall smell.
So when you inhale this scent the rose almost smells mystical as you get a lush red rose which seems to be different from the usual rose scent that you are used to smelling.
It is a very well crafted rose scent as it makes you stop and think that this is different but you cannot put your finger on it without much thought.
For me as a man this rose fragrance though imo very good I just feel I could not pull this one off. And this is down to the rose been too lush and intense for my taste. I have the same problem with Lyric Man from Amouage.
For rose lovers this is a great mystical lush red rose with different facets that makes sampling this one a pleasure.
Mikluho – :
Surprisingly, I am utterly smitten with this one.
I say “surprisingly” because (a) I’ve had the sample for six months and I had dismissed it as meh; and (b) I am not a rose person (or at least I thought I wasn’t).
While this is unmistakably a rose, it is thankfully not a bright, cheerful rose. Nor is it a “dirty” rose, like Eau Suave (which I like) or a very dramatic one, like Portrait of a Lady (which I love, but don’t know where I would wear). It is certainly not a tobacco rose, as others have said – no hint of tobacco.
So what is it?
It is a rose tempered by what I think is hay and beeswax and what apparently is moss, which gives it some earthiness and tones it down (a good thing, in my book). The moss plays in Tobacco Rose the role that patchouli plays in Lumiere Noire. It is warm, discreet and versatile and perfect for autumn. I have worn my sample at work, in the evening and on the weekend. On my perfume-eating, sillage-killing skin, longevity is amazing (more than eight hours), while sillage is discreet (although a colleague did compliment me, but we were working side by side).
I have now placed it on my Want list. The only thing is, I would like to do a side-by-side testing with Lumiere Noire, as I need only of the two. Decisions, decisions.
-=ADvokat=- – :
My first public wearing of Tobacco Rose by Papillon Perfumes this evening. A sultry and brooding rose, she is moody, slightly aloof and very sophisticated. She unveils herself in layers, through which her constituent parts are shown as distinct yet perfectly blended. This rose is mournful yet ecstatic. The rose/moss combo creates a gentrified version of classic 80s rose/patch/moss scent, “Zino” by Davidoff.
I really recommend this for well-dressed, suave guys!
Айнбек – :
In contrast to rose fragrances mixed with oud, sweet notes, or more rose, Papillon’s Tobacco Rose is an earthy rose, due mainly due to the hay, I imagine, though it smells somewhat like patchouli to me.
In this respect it is a more distinct masculine rose fragrance than most I’ve smelled, which seem unisex or (more likely) feminine. Tobacco Rose’s opening is pretty harsh, reminding me of Tom Ford Tobacco Oud, but the dry down is really where it achieves its homeostasis between the two eponymous notes and some of the other elements—hay, ambergris, beeswax all seem to be there, and I’d have to use my imagination for the balsam and oakmoss.
Projection and longevity are strong as expected, and I would definitely characterize this as a masculine cold weather scent, which could work for both day and night. The price ($160 for 50ml on Lucky Scent) isn’t wholly prohibitive but given that it’s unlike most rose scents, this needs to be smelled first, and should by fans of rose that prefer an earthier, less sweet, less common angle on rose.
7 out of 10
simon4eg – :
Rosa fumosa, scura, terrosa, crepuscolare, ovattata.
Stille di rugiada su rosa aspra.
Mi rimanda a brughiere scozzesi, battute dal vento.
Interessante e originale, unisex, legnosa.
Bella ma per me troppo austera.
Persistenza circa due ore, che diventano sei se si aspergono le punte dei capelli.
eorikgpy – :
light.. sweet.. Rosy scent, nothing special in this one, its not based tobacco perfume!!
Sashka95 – :
There is no tobacco in this although it retains a tobacco accord by virtue of a dry hay element. This blends well with a sweet and earthy rose that gives this scent its character. It may not be complex nor as ‘noir’ as many other rose offerings in the more niche world, but that is exactly why this scent is a winner – it is different enough to justify a purchase.
The blending and execution is on point – the performance pretty good too.
gamem – :
Very earthy and real rose in some lovely haze of very light tobacco and oakmoss. The fragrance smells sad to me and I don’t know why.
Although I like this offering, it is my least favorite out of the three releases by this house. It doesn’t have the richness and complexity of the other two.
sleozo – :
This scent is slightly sour, somewhat astringent and lightly powdered throughout. Interestingly, I smell the tobacco a lot more in the bottle than I do on my skin. The rose has laundry-like freshness in its early stages. The juice is brown but make no mistake, this scent is predominantly green. The drydown is when Tobacco Rose is most masculine with the oakmoss showcasing its earthy quality. All in all, this is a “Hey, what are you wearing” kind of fragrance but the longevity is a little suspect. Maybe there’s a cheat code out there to unlock the noticeability(up, up, down, left, down, left) Ok that was unnecessary …I like this and will consider getting a bottle in the future.
chas87 – :
I reviewed Tobacco Rose in full for Olfactoria’s Travels and am fortunate to have got to know Liz Moores since.
TR is my favourite of the three, which are all very special. It’s such a lush, deep rose which is more alive than any I’ve come across before. It starts green and ends earthy/mossy, showering you with rose petals inbetween.
It has outstanding longevity. When you apply it on your skin you can see and feel the high oil content. I’d say it’s more like extrait strength.
If it doesn’t last that long on you and you don’t have perfume-eating skin, I’d be concerned. Make sure you get some from an authorised stockist because a perfume as potent as this is ripe for dilution by the unscrupulous.
Pahan324 – :
This is a beautiful, earthy perfume. It uses an oak moss and hay to form the dark, dusky notes suggestive of tobacco. The notes listed for this by Fragrantica are missing the hay. The rose is very strong and pure in perfume, and the tobacco, which is really the hay fragrance and not a true tobacco, is evident right away and forms a pleasing contrast to the sweetness of the rose. Forms a type of chypre, even if not a classic one.
I’ve worn the sample all day today, and I think it’s going to be a perfect fall cologne. Where I live we don’t get very many cool autumn days, but it still makes me think of a cool, brisk day and bundled up in boots and coat, walking in a wooded area and coming home to a nice fire.
I tried all three of these new perfums from Papillon Artisan, and Tobacco Rose was my definite favorite. To me this could be both a daytime and evening perfume. I don’t think it’s exotic enough to be relegated to an evening out fragrance. It’s mild enough to be worn in a fragrance tolerant office place. My only beef is it’s a little too mild as far as sillage and longevity, but I’m willing to put some in a purse atomizer for touch-ups. I think it’s worth it.
***Re Tortola’s review: I got my sample from Indigo Perfumery, which I think is the only stockist in the US for Papillon at this time. I seriously doubt they would water down my 1 mm sample! Since Tortola is, after all, a perfume blogger and is friends with an actual perfumer, I’m sure they’re aware that different body chemistry can affect the longevity of a perfume for a wearer.
cyncMeeni – :
available at indigo parfumery in ohio (they have an online store, too).