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MAKAR74 – :
Noun is my first try from Bogue, and as an exclusive Luckyscent release to celebrate the boutique’s fifteenth anniversary, it’s a particularly daring entry.
It’s a gourmand, but not a sweet one, as Sebastian Jara notes, its particular ensemble of green, woody, and spicy notes conjuring spicy vegetables and meat to my nose.
Mostly, the spicieness stands out with an undercurrent of resins to render the blend slightly creamy and at the same time still a bit animalic.
In the dry down, I get more of the floral/herbal side of it, the lavender in particular, and it smells a bit more like a traditional men’s fragrance.
Performance is strong, but it comes pricey, at $210 for 50ml, so one really needs to love the stuff to splurge for it.
7 out of 10
shvillloo – :
Noun starts with the scratchiness, the hint of dissonance that I love in Antonio Gardoni’s perfumes. His perfumes are built for the long haul, unfolding slowly over the course of the day. Like traditional extraits they aren’t meant to be judged at the first sniff where they can appear so potent as to be aggressive.
Fruit marks the transition to the perfumes heart. The citrus transforms into an almost grape-like note that creates a flinty whiff of white wine. Noun turns jammy but never actually grows sweet. Noun’s fruit–what I perceive as jamminess and the mineral hint of white wine (you might characterize it differently)–hovers beside the perfume’s central woody-floral core, as though sensed through the olfactory equivalent of peripheral vision. The hint of grape highlights the perfume’s floral quality similarly to the way Dior Poison and Caron Narcisse Noir famously amped their white floral bouquets with methyl anthranilate, a material that can give a concord grape, bubble-gummy flavor to tuberose and orange blossom. In Noun, the effect is much more subtle and the hint of grape gives the woody-floral heart a smooth glow.
It doesn’t take long to recognize the importance of patchouli in Noun. Over the course of hours, the balance of flowers-to-woods tips in favor of the woods that ultimately define the perfume. Gardoni’s perfumes tend to shine in dry down, where precise layering of resinous materials give the perfumes impressive coherence and Noun is no exception. The emphasis on patchouli’s camphorous side gives Noun’s drydown a cool vibe that differentiates it from the warm basenotes of Maai.
On first wearing Noun, I was struck by how prominent the Bogue-identifiers are. The salty/musky balance and the pattern of the white florals in particular are familiar. The question Noun must answer is: Is it just a different flavor of a ‘house accord’ that Gardoni has shown before? My answer is no, but I suspect that Gardoni has beaten me to the punch and answered the question already. Noun’s topnote will be instantly identifiable to wearers of Maai and Aeon 001, but despite the ‘signature style’ of the opening, the perfume avoids predictability. Gardoni puts his distinctive mark on the perfume’s topnote—almost a taunt—then retracts it as the perfume dives deep into the patchouli.
All artists must watch their work closely over time to avoid repeating themselves. Gardoni’s perfumes reiterate themes within a specific genre. Still, I wouldn’t rebuke a classical composer for not creating a jazz piece and I don’t fault Gardoni for making woody-floral perfumes, especially when he continues to find new patterns and ideas in his work. In fact, I would argue that as he continues to explore the resinous woody-floral range, Gardoni’s work becomes more personal. Noun and MEM, which preceded it, are particularly strong efforts and demonstrate Gardoni’s ability to mine a concept for different configurations that produce novel results.
(exerpted from scenthurdle.com)
o.mish – :
Spicy. Edgy. Rich. There’s a weird salami note at the top. Great longevity.
olliy – :
Best Bogue to walk the earth? I’m not sure yet.. I’m more collector than I am hedonist hence blind buying is my modus operandi. As it pertains to this fragrance, I’m not sure if I own bottle number 39 or perhaps I have the 39th bottle. Lets hope it’s not the latter. That would mean there is only 11 remaining. Here’s a couple of adjectives describing Noun: Brooding and Funereal. The note listing would suggest that you are engaging in something earthly. I can assure you that this is totally Mars!! This skin brew was constructed with malevolence in mind. Here lies a scintilla of white florals buried alive and begging for its life but coffined by olibdanum and spices. The rosewood, cedar and vetiver is a powerful expression of woody aromas. This fragrance is as demonstrative as there is. Deep benzoin, embrowned, somewhat unhued; bold, matured, multi-dimensional aroma, stays smooth and persistent atop a modicum of leather. Bogue is loaded with a power rush of pepper but sandalwood is distinct in the background. This concludes smoothly and it feels like I get a different result each time I wear it; sometimes I get rose other times I don’t. Any spicy fragrance that can be this expressive and this green without being excessive is pretty amazing. Here’s a more optimistic way of viewing Noun: A dining table with the jasmine being the centerpiece. Flower arrangements have always been a perfect way to brighten up an accent table…peep the metaphor….Don’t you dare listen to Luckyscent!!! Gourmand this is not!! Not one time did I feel like my arm was edible. Buy this to be different not delicious.
yurock.c1981 – :
Another boundary pushing creation by Antonio Gardoni, this almost animalic gourmand dense and bold benzoin-based perfume created as a limited edition of 50 bottles for Luckyscent’s 15th anniversary celebration is for those who like heavy, old style, perfumes like Gardoni’s own classic “Maai”. The central note here is dense benzoin which is surrounded by a flurry of notes like most of his creations – in this case, bergamot, yuzu, mandarin, petitgrain, buchu, black pepper, mint, basil, mustard seed, cassis, rosemary, ylang ylang, jasmine, rose, lavender, geranium, rosewood, labdanum, olibanum, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, tonka, siam wood and cedar (Phew!). Starts shape shifting the moment it lands on your skin with very strong projection, sillage and longevity, this will appeal to those who like their perfumes dense, bold and resinous. For those with strong, “dont care about the world” personalities, this is edgy, brilliant, modern perfumery at its finest. I loved it but there is a good chance you will hate it, especially if you love perfumes like Aventus and Gypsy Water. Enjoy!