Description
“A classical chypre executed in the traditional French style, but with an oriental twist that will leave one dazed in its sheer opulence and wanting more as it twists and shifts from one phase to another…
One is first greeted with classical fruity green, then, just like an awoken peacock on a bed of moss, it truly reveals all its floral colours and magnificence with rich hues of white, red, pink, blue and purple.
As you come close to this magnificent beast, you realise it’s all a mirage of smoke and incense spiked with the richest amber and moss” — press release of the brand. Encens Chypre was launched in 2014. The nose behind this fragrance is Sultan Pasha.
Intendant – :
Encens Chypre is one of my very favorite from Sultan Pasha – I dare say as far as I can step aside from my personal aesthetic taste, I would say if you could only pick five masterworks per house (as if most houses would even come close, usually reigning in one or two at most) Encens Chypre would be right up there.
There’s this amazing affect that takes place upon the first wave this fragrance releases – there’s lime, orris, oaskmoss, elemi, bergamot, peach, artemisia, rose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang – to describe it, I would say at the center there is a fusion of peach and lime creating this beautiful ‘citrus’ top, which feels unlike any other citrus quality you have thus encountered – directly underneath the lime is the crisp and cool elemi resin, the soft dusty, medicinal artemesia, the slightly herbal and crusty oakmoss, while under the peach one can almost taste the deliciously jammy rose, the cool (almost sparkling) orris root, the custard-y ylang-ylang, the heady and almost syrupy jasmine, and the juicy bergamot curbing the almost over-ripe edges of the peach.
There’s a woodiness that gently lingers underneath the totality of this majestic first wave – a spiciness rises from this stage as well that seems to come from the carnation, but there is also a depth to it that’s a little smoky which I believe to be the incense barely awakening near the very depth of the base. This woody quality occasionally feels salty, but primarily has a honeyed or amber quality which tinges it with a sweetness that perfectly works to make one recognize the absolutely dizzying number of notes present in the first wave of this work. As the work progresses, it seems as if the semi-sweet muskyness that seemed barely present at first begins to grow alongside the chewy as all hell tobacco, smoky and leathery oud, as well as this comforting cashmere/dark brown feeling ambered effect that seems to be a mixture of the tolu balsam and the benzoin – it’s spiced, but almost like a thick, sweet, dark spiced spirit, it feels very warm, heady, and beautiful.
These qualities seem to grow very softly and sneakily as the composition doesn’t have any real abrupt moments, but seems to utilize the complex and huge number of notes to slowly drop the wearer from one set of images, ideas, and feelings to another, while never seeming like a piece is out of place, always staying warm, comforting, delicious and exotic. There is a wonderful transition between what seem to me to be the primary floral notes of the composition, where the rose spills into the ylang-ylang, which spills into the jasmine – they are all present throughout a majority of the composition to me, but, as if a theme throughout a complex, engaging, majestic, and long symphony, this seems to be a place that the wearer can steady their gaze as the rest of the work carries out around them. The creaminess of this composition is just to die for, as the sweets, the fruits, the spices, the florals, and the smoky, leathery, oudy aspects of this fragrance dance around this wonderful chypre base that could turn even the most avid anti-chypre fragrance lover to a devout fan of the genre, despite having encountered one of the very highest peaks available to the genre.
This is one of those fragrances that really reveals how thoughtful and savant-like Sultan Pasha is, for this fragrance somehow blends elements of Eastern perfumery with classical French perfumery to create something that wonderfully signs to the archaic, while being firmly in the present – one which takes the idea of one of the most beloved fragrances of all time (Mitsouko) and denies copying it (occasionally calling for others to remember her, without directly referencing her) and stands firm in it’s own land. This fragrance is one of the most addicting, regal, and majestic fragrances I have ever put my nose to, and despite the fact that you won’t want to run out, you will find yourself applying it day after day, simply because of how much you are dying to experience it again and again.
Another hard earned 10/10 for Sultan Pasha
YT: Jess AndWesH
aguseva – :
In my humble openion Sultan Pasha Attars are of great quality and made of very highly sort after ingridents I have had opportunity to snif many attars on his sample pack each and every one is a master pice and no other perfumer make attars like sultan pasha, I have had attars from big houses like ASQ Rasasi Ajmal but not a single attar come close to Sultan Pasha creations, Encens Chypre is like an awakning peacock as Sultan describe him self is one I like the most and I have order it second time a must have.
pmx513Negeltzex – :
Encens Chypre by Sultan Pasha
Nothing makes me more nervous than attempting to write a review for one of Sultan Pasha’s attars. I literally get anxiety. For one, he’s my friend so the pressure is high. And two, people describe his fragrances in such magical and poetic terms that anything I write just feels like “yo! cool beans this smells so good ommagah” and compared to the other reviews it just never seems to do it enough justice. So, I rarely write them.
I’m not good with describing perfume in technical terms, never claim to be, and you can see the notes above so I want to talk about something else.
First of all, the fragrance is stunning. But isn’t everything he does? There is really no getting around it. Sultan Pasha makes some beautiful fragrances. This one is no exception. There is something magical about wearing SP attars, it’s hard to explain if you haven’t tried them. But there is a quality about them that I find so introspective, thoughtful, intricate and gracious, and if you know Sultan at all, you will know this is in complete contrast to his demeanor. I’m not saying he isn’t thoughtful or gracious, he certainly can be (when he’s in the mood lol) but he’s known more for being a crazy wild man lol. But his fragrances do not reflect that at all. They are a reflection of careful consideration and even softness of heart, of painstaking detail and I even sense an OCD level of striving for perfection. What I feel Sultan Pasha’s work gives us is not only exquisite beauty, but a glimpse into Sultan’s soul. And it’s not that of a madman, it’s that of a kind man. And clearly a very talented one.
Encens Chypre is exquisite beauty as all SP attars are, and it smells exactly like the name sounds. It’s a incense infused chypre that wears like a magical love filled symphony.