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wSzrhidzCJI – :
It was released in 2016 and its name makes obvious reference to the blue cypress. According to Laszlo – a famous Brazilian company in the field of essential oils – the blue cypress (Callitris Intratopica) differs from other types of cypress (European, Lusitanian or Japanese (Hinoki)) because its essential oil is obtained from the wood, instead of the leaves. The distillation process is also quite time consuming, so that the azulenes (sensitive molecules that give the blue colour) do not get lost under pressure.
The wood of the cypress is rich in alpha-pinene, much found in essential oils of rosemary, eucalyptus and conifers, such as pines and cypress. To reduce its levels, the woods can be left exposed to air (for the compound to evaporate) or the first distilled parts are discarded. And the result is an ingredient with a woody note, of citrus and green aroma, which also acts as a base note in perfumes, since it serves as a fixative agent and gives a balsamic and/or herbal smell.
Now, let’s leave the theories aside and let’s get down to business. Blue Cypress features notes of lavender, European cypress, cardamom and coriander, in the head; Blue cypress, Blue Tanaceto (known as Blue Moroccan Chamomile), ylang-ylang, lilies and rose, in the body; White musk, vetiver and ambroxan, in the base.
On the skin, practice does not match theory. I imagined a floral and woody scent with an icy output, as the perfumer’s description states. Just by seeing ylang-ylang in the composition, I already expected something different and quite floral. Especially when I think of the lilies and the rose. But on my skin, Blue Cypress turned out to be a linear fragrance with cleansing-product aspect and no woody appeal. The impression I have, when I compare it to the other creations of the House, is an unfinished product that has some note of cold mint (or eucalyptus) and a touch of musk, but that was bottled ahead of time. It definitely did not please me. As an example of woody fragrance, which has cypress, transmits a blue aura and is very well made, I suggest Encre Noire Sport.
To conclude, since this analysis was not very positive, I would like to leave my opinion regarding the visual of the products, without having to do this in future reviews: I love the concept of perfumes wrapped in satin, inside wooden boxes – as long as they look natural, like rosewood or mahogany – as in Café Massoïa and Smoking Lounge. From the moment the boxes began to come finished with colours and paintings that look like they were made with crayons, the concept of luxury product began to be lost and the investment happens to be in vain. And presentation still counts (a lot).