Description
Antaeus is the name of ancient Greek demigod. Strong, like a god, and gentle as a man, Antaeus belongs to those perfumes of expressed individuality and strong character which emphasize masculinity, what was a trend in 1980-ies. Myrtle and sage, lime and thyme have united to give the fragrance a special freshness and masculine character. The fragrance is warming up and becomes intensive at the end due to patchouli, sandal and labdanum in the base. Sharp animalistic nuance is brought in by the notes of castoreum and leather.
The top notes include lemon, lime, coriander, myrtle, clary sage, and bergamot. The heart is composed of thyme, basil, rose and jasmine, while the base of patchouli, castoreum, labdanum, and oak moss. The perfume was created by Jacques Polge in 1981.
zarembaanton – :
Antaeus it seems, never really took of for Chanel. While it could have been for the maison what Coco became, Antaeus was a hit of the moment, spawning a short lived Antaeus Sport flanker, and then took refugee in the back. Few use Antaeus, even today, and even though Chanel has kept it for its followers, it hasn’t bothered to promote it; the vintage enjoys cult status, while the current, stripped by laws and cost cutting could have benefited from a newer flanker if only for the spotlight to shine on the original.
Review based on a 200ml splash from 1982.
Antaeus is one of the few perfumes that always brings two specific movies to my mind every time I use it; Cruising with Al Pacino, discovering his wild side in the meatpacking district leather clubs. Given the fact that Antaeus was rumored to be a huge success with the gay collective circa 1980’s, I wonder if this association isn’t that far fetched.
But Antaeus is so much more than that. Less popular, less in-your-face than the popular brute Kouros, launched the same year, Antaeus always maintained a more suave appearance, a distance, just like Richard Gere in American Gigolo; is he really a killer in disguise, or has he always had the instinct all along?
Herbal, dry chypre, rich in woods, leather and castoreum, with a beautiful beeswax note that got lost through the years. A deep rose, N°5 in a way that links it to the house and the grand dame.
This is what the vintage smells like. Antaeus opens with herbal accents of myrtle, sage, coriander, basil… Polge’s intention was of a classical composition. But it’s 1981 and whether you like it or not, the market and tastes dictate power and strength. So Polge played with the oakmoss and the leather and the castoreum with maybe just a smidgen of civet to give the base all the power and longevity that men and women demanded, and gave the heart a more somber treatment. The rose and jasmine that glow in the background smell distinctly Chanel; there is a brief link to N°5 in this beautiful floral vein that runs among the more classic herbal/chypre feel, and the more contemporary animalic growl. The leather, abundantly rich creates the signature of Antaeus. And it’s the deep tanned leather, Cuir de Russie meets Peau d’Espagne. Classic gentleman meets his dark side. Was it there all along?
Antaeus is always a pleasure to use, and a challenge to the senses. While it is unequivocally Chanel, the treatment of the notes is the work of genius. Polge created something that was in the realm of classic and respected but he also played his brutal animalic side, playing with shadows and contrasts to create something bigger than the sum. Class, elegance, sexuality, debauchery. Was Antaeus a killer all along?
The longevity is outstanding, pulsating from the skin like a heartbeat in the heat of the night, while the sillage is mellow and discreet. In this sense, it doesn’t shout, but he’s always lurking in the shadows. And when he comes out, there’s no escaping.
omnibomber – :
I own a 2018 bottle from earlier this year, and just got a 25+ year old bottle this week. The old version is much more floral, and the castoreum note is more subtle but lasting. The new version gives you a blast up front for a few minutes then it’s gone. The old version is beautiful, I wish this was still the version in production today and I’d buy several to keep for years to come
GubanOFF – :
I sampled this at a duty free in Dallas. Knowing that I love it, but will seldom wear it, I took a risk and bought it.
After spraying it at home, I must have purchased a reformulated bottle—different from what I sampled.
As stated below, I noticed there is little trace of the animalic note, and the whole composition is noticeably more floral than before, while still incredibly dense and balanced. I love this even more.
shipuchka – :
I received two bottles of this as hand me downs from my father, which are over 10 years old.
This is a hypermasculine fragrance dominated by oakmoss, rose with a splash of castoreum – comes off dry woody. There is a level of classy sophistication that would likely be appreciated by a more mature crowd. You will definitely stand out from the sweet gourmands or fresh citrus/aquatics, creating a scent memory from anyone that appreciates it.
Listed as an EDT, but would blow most EDP I have out of the water with the strength/lasting power.
If anyone is interested in the older vintage versions, I am willing to sell them at very reasonable prices within the CONUS, so PM me with offers.
p2000s – :
I have to say something about the recent formulation of the Antaeus… It is godlike! You can really tell that Chanel is thinking a lot about the changes. They ditched the leather note (because today it is impossible to make it work), ditched the animalic note (same reason) and instead made the most beautiful tobacco fragrance I’ve ever smelled. And its projection is no longer radioactive, which means that Antaeus is, at last, a true Chanel fragrance and a proper masculine fragrance. Buy it or steal it!
satir69 – :
I won’t get into notes, because I can’t honestly discern many notes in any fragrance that I own. I blindly bought this frag based on the vast number of “loves” and even “likes” over dislikes, and my general appreciation for older generation scent. I sprayed 2 sprays on my arm, and within one minute this has become my favorite smell taking over from the controversial Kouros. The major difference being that I can wear this and I might not be the only one enjoying it. This doesn’t smell anything like Kouros but it is clearly from the same mindset/goal/era. It is so unique and manly, that I don’t think I could be satisfied with a sporty or fresh scent now. I think it’s aimed for an older crowd than myself (28) but I dont mind smelling older!
vokasay – :
Adorable and esteemed Macho-like killer. Or I should rather write hypermasculine gentlement scent fitting personas of a beauty and savoir vivre with calibre of the 007 Agent. Macho is too vulgar and brutal to describe this highly classy creation which would perfectly match prematurely torn by life elegant 30ties with upper class education yet not yet yuppy nor buffoon. Or a daring and respectful artist in his 50ties swimming in the top notch celebrity world like fish in the sea (e.g. versatily talented Cezar Manrique wore it and believe Antheus served him well).
JasminSmaji – :
I whole heartily agree with Shamus1 that Antaeus is a perfect perfume, 100/100. It’s mood is dark though not brooding. It’s a woody chypre, with a floral labdanum heart and a patchouli and leather base. The florals have enough strength that it could work as a feminine. As for men, I feel it can be worn by any man in any situation, though it carries an air of overall seriousness for me, seriousness that reminds me of Heritage, though in a very different way
ПавелКонов – :
Ok, I’ll agree Antaeus isn’t quite as strong as it was back in the day, but that’s irrelevant. This is still the same old school, skanky chypre it’s always been, and that’s what matters most. Still projects like a bat out of hell, with staying power that will last into the next day. Make this your everyday fragrance, and it will stick to your shirts for days, leaving a remnant of you for your significant other who goes into your closet or does the laundry.
If you’ve never tried this, Antaeus is a powerful blast of animalic funk and labdanum, with aromatic and woody notes underneath to give it an old school testicular vibe. This is a very heavy fragrance.
Although Antaeus is ultra masculine, this could smell sexy on a woman (a gutsy woman). Suitable both for well dressed gentlemen and machos with gold chains and chest hair.
My rating: 10/10
374984-1 – :
Only a quick impression: I would not call this a woody chypre but an oriental fougere. It makes a marvellous dark, winter oriental for women too. The quality is smooth as only Chanel can do with a drydown to die for that lasts far into the next day. You just have to hop over the first fougery blast that might come off a bit too manly.
anidalow97 – :
I truly love this perfume! It was among the very first ones had and the manliest scents you can ever find. It’s a very strong 80’s scents that fill the room when you walk in, with animalistic notes, castoreum is very present as well as the leather with some deep dark sweet notes. It’s very easy to overdo this one so that it will become offensive, so just don’t.
It’s not meant for a lot of occasions since it’s so strong and “in your face”, but it just is masculine. It will last you forever since it takes so less to smell decent.
It lasts 12+ hours easy on the skin and becomes too much if not sprayed lightly, so beware.
All in all, this perfume is the essence of man. It will last you a very long time, just because it takes so little to smell nice (not offensive) and also because there are few occasions when you can wear it. Also because it’s best suited for cold weather and the nighttime. A true man scent, 10/10.
Oksana1984 – :
Oh my gosh. Now I’m sitting and trying to sniff the skin out of my wrist. Today I’ve bought this gorgeous masterpiece.
Imagine night in the desert. Warm but not hot. Neither moonlight, nor starlight. Just black sky and orange sand. Nothing more except biggest red rose that you’ve ever seen. That’s how Antaeus smells.
I don’t see here masculinity at all. Beautiful refined scent for the mature seducer.
This thing might be worn all the seasons, but definitely after sunset.
админ сосёт – :
I am wondering, how could have this colossus of men’s perfumery escaped me for so long. Well, I guess it’s never too late to fill in the gaps of your fragrance education.
And when I first smelled Antaeus, I knew a really big gap was being filled with one of the most consequential art lessons to be delivered by a widely respected haute couture house to the general public, no distinctions made.
If Kouros was the civet bomb, then Antaeus has to be the castoreum explosion and Chanel’s worthy response to the challenge. The composition is immaculately classical, if you take a glance at the pyramid. Apart from the castoreum, rose is to my nose the next most prominent player, apart from the obligatory oakmoss, of course. Everything else serves to make the composition as opulent and smooth as it is.
The strength of Antaeus is unlike most fragrances you can get these days, it’s incomparable, actually, and to have recently acquired a bottle that is so strong baffles me. I would have expected to be receiving a castrated stud, but it turned out to be quite the opposite. Such a humble and unassuming bottle, containing hours and hours of olfactory delight, a stunner really.
cdc197013 – :
all hail the King, beeswax, leather, oakmoss, sage…for REAL men for Real..no wasters of precious time..this is it, the ultimate scent, great also in the blistering sun!
all hail the king!
belkiska – :
A timeless scent to caress your aura with depth, masculinity, class and beauty. A glowing start evolves into a comforting fragrance unlike any other. It is mystical, wonderful, soothing and sensual. I obviously love it. Its really unique. My signature scent. Thank you Chanel.
AndreyUK – :
Animalic and challenging to start, complex musky woods to end. This reminds us of old masculine perfumery. A true beast, and true beauty. Leathery, a tad smoky, mossy, and overall just beautiful. Worth a smell, and worthy of praise.
kenny26 – :
Hello Everyone,
Question: Has anyone tried the Antaeus deodorant spray?How is it different in terms of performance than the deodorant stick? Thank you!
lexer1977 – :
It has become something of a tradition with me when I find myself in the Denver International Airport to spritz myself with perfume at the duty free shop. I had a short layover and out of everything there Antaeus looked the most interesting. It was the most interesting last time I was there too!
Wood, animalic leather, oak moss, myrrh and maybe a floral; earthy, smokey and a little green. Antaeus has a lot going on. A woody, leathery, chypre old style fragrance. An old man scent for cooler weather. Evolves quite a bit on my skin. Unique smelling; people will think you smell weird. My head would spin in the best way if I smelled this on a lady. It’s not as common to see Antaeus on shelves to try out. Everyone should smell this but I’m not interested enough for a bottle or decant.
Evornobby – :
Other than for the sake of nostalgia, there’s no reason to lament the tamed performance of 2018 Antaeus. So what if it doesn’t possess the same brutal intensity as the 1980s vintage; times have changed, besides, the present version of Antaeus is plenty strong. More importantly, the very idea of “Beast Mode” and “Nuclear Sillage” and “Powerhouse” is, to my mind, antithetical to good taste. Gentleman: any fragrance—no matter how good—if over applied will be a turn-off. The idea is for your scent to draw her in, bring her closer; not to blast her, or anyone, for that matter, with a cloud of perfume. Of course, that requires personal charm. But armed with a modicum of manly manners, today’s bottle of Antaeus will serve your interests quite satisfactorily.
Tesderera – :
تعجبني النكهة اللذيذة
التي اجهل ماهي
سوا انها توحي لي
بلونٍ زاهٍ عكس ما
يوحي به الرداء الاسود
على الزجاجة ..!!
هل هو الروز
مع الحمضيات .. لا اعلم صراحة
كذلك تعجبني رائحة
الجلود المحروقة المختلطة
برائحة الحطب ..!!
..
اعشق احياناً تلك العطور
التي تسبب الاضطراب في المشاعر
فانا محتار جداً
بامتزاج التضاد هذا بين
الرقة و الغلضة
الشدة و اللين
العفو و العقاب
..
انتايوس
رائحة الاب الجبلي الحنون
sanni28 – :
Beautiful and elegant fragrance. But the reformulations were harsh on Antaeus. Not that much with the smell itself, but performance. I have just bought a new bottle directly from Chanel (batch from 01/2018) and we are not talking about beast mode powerhouse fragrance anymore. 4 sprays project moderately for around 2 hrs, with sillage for about 3 hrs. No room filling. New formulation can now easily be used in summer as well. It is much more subtle now.
I recently restocked with all my favorite Chanel fragrances (Allure – Eau Extreme, Edition Blanche…) and they seem to perform the same. And in all cases, it is worse than older batches.
Scent: 8/10
Performance: 7/10
Versatility: 6/10
samosveti – :
Why… why oh why did I sell this?!
Best single-spray chypre ever.
eminov_e – :
Don’t be afraid of the little picture of the rodent at the top of the pyramid. Antaeus is a dry combo of smoke, leather, wood, and powder. Very nice!
loganf24 – :
Even after reformulations this is a deep, balsamic Animalistic and slightly green masterpiece.
I get a edgy , dark-yet not dense,very masculine fragrance. I think this fragrance fits the man who loved drakkar, but now is more established and only rides his motorcycle when he feels like it and traded his biker leathers for a black leather suit.
I enjoy this at 25 and one day will buy a bottle , when I have gray hairs.
Recommended to the man, who still loves the classic 80s fragrances.
Polhat – :
This is my first Chanel fragrance and – whooo! – it’s a big one: very earthy notes reminiscent of dark and sexy volcanic soil with powdery smoke that hangs just in the background.
vadim_s – :
This one is quite interesting, a dark scent. which I think is kinda “sexy”. a strong perfumey dark eathry scent with castoreum and some earthyness. It is quite perfumey I thought meaning it is not rough spices and patchouli, but more liquidy “perfumey” in a way.
It is interesting how the perfumers get castoreum but minus the pissy dirty cage smell in the real stuff, but this smells like the castoreum but not dirty. I like the earthyness in this. There are a lot other scents also in this genre.
For me though it is a $30 or $35 scent. It’s no better quality than any Caron, or Van Cleef pour homme, or Paco Rabanne pour homme which are all priced at that level. or even Lapidus which sells for $15. well maybe it’s worth about $50 since that is what Kouros sells for, but still that’s a lot. Chanel sells it for $90.
gasRoutt – :
A scent for a real man! This scent really gets down to business. It’s deep, heavy, very dark and potent. It’s suprisingky not overpowering when smelled in the air and in fact is one of my most complimented colognes despite being hugely dated. I’ve fallen away from this in recent months but I still appreciate it nevertheless. Definitely from a different era, before the unisex phase.
Whatever you do, don’t overspray this one. People will hate you and the ladies will want to beat you up.
Boojin – :
Just tried the latest version today in high humidity. I owned a current formulation maybe 6 years ago.
Not to mean this is a bad way but the current today smells like a more subdued original version versus the old granny flower bomb that was going around awhile ago.
Seems to have decent staying power. It even resisted shower water for a few minutes. These days that is impressive. I have no idea about projection.
Next time I shop on Chanel’s website this might go in my cart.
Not Bad.
WedahourgehaW – :
Just tried the latest version today in high humidity. I owned a current formulation maybe 6 years ago.
Not to mean this is a bad way but the current today smells like a more subdued original version versus the old granny flower bomb that was going around awhile ago.
Seems to have decent staying power. It even resisted shower water for a few minutes. These days that is impressive. I have no idea about projection.
Next time I shop on Chanel’s website this might go in my cart.
Not Bad.
bjlGypopHataGync – :
mmmmm…. you sexy beast that just strolled by me at Wall Street and Broadway in NYC a short time ago. Your trail of Antaeus there to make me swoon. Not a screech of scent but more like a caress. Strong yet not overbearing. With so many unisex fragrances flooding the market today, I am so thrilled when I catch the aroma of Antaeus on a man. There is nothing unisex about this, it is totally masculine…mmmmm What a great way to start my day!
D Е N I S – :
The best thing I did today was spraying this on my left wrist during my visit to a perfume shop. I’ve been sniffing my wrist ever since. The dry-down is stupendously awesome. It brought back memories of the days I used to own one. This has to be one of the greatest fragrances of all time and it’s meant for mature men only.
I still rue the fact that I owned and ended up wasting this gem when I wasn’t ready to own one. I was just being a spoilt brat at the time. Luckily, everyone deserves a second chance.
Looking forward to owning my next one. This should best be reserved for date nights with “THE ONE”, black tie events and other special occasions.
Kneectpeexy – :
The more i sample it the more i like it!
In particular the drydown,the opening is cool in an over the top way.I would love to see how powerful the original wAs.
This is pure sex.
9375365510 – :
I agree, the various reformulations are quite different, and should be considered a separate scent.
Those labeled with the sticker on bottle are my favorite era.
Good_post – :
Review of batch code 1105: This is like a “cheap” yet EdP version of the original (in that it’s smoothed out). I can understand the appeal of this idea, but I think they should call these scents something like Antaeus Moderne or Antaeus Now. If you are a huge fan of the vintage, I suggest sampling first, and of course if you mostly like “fresh,” sport, aquatic, etc. scents, don’t blind buy. Otherwise, it’s a pleasant “old school” type scent, minus the “rough edges.”
Deroxlzzsq – :
Antaeus is a very nice fragrance….albeit, it’s an acquired type of fragrance. It’s a bit to old school for me to want to wear nowadays. The bottle I own is from circa 2008 (silver sprayer) batch# 8702 and 98% full.
sixote – :
I am a female and I have tested this at least a half dozen times… every time I would go to Nordstrom, I’d get a sample because I just really love it. It works really well with my chemistry. It’s fresh and a bit soapy but also has a natural, herbal, & animalic quality. It’s almost as if it were Chanel’s way of giving their male customers a No.5 of their own.
Anyway, today I was at Nordstrom and I was going to ask for another sample and I just thought, “ya know what, this is CRAZY… if this were a “woman’s” fragrance, I would have bought it after liking the first sample! I’m buying it.” And so I did. This is a great fragrance. To me, it’s quite androgynous. Just a genderless, interesting, almost organic smelling fragrance. I am really glad to have finally shaken whatever weird preconceptions were keeping me from committing to a full bottle.
Longevity above average, it actually outlasts most of my EDPs. Silage is moderate-high depending on how much I use and where I spray it.
plokiusd – :
Warm, earthy, rustical, slightly sweet, densely aromatic. Antaeus has a lot going on. At the same time, it comes off as a perfectly “natural”, a very organic scent. I quite enjoyed it, smelling it off my hand, trying to separate the notes. An hour after the application, I’d almost forgotten about it, and just caught a random whiff, and the first pre-reflective association was — manure. Not in a bad way, mind you. I went to university in a small town, where in the spring they used to fertilize the fields nearby. Instantly, I was transported back to these days. But I would not want to be the one to transport other people to their agrarian fancies. If you know that it is a perfume, you can appreciate it, but if you have no context, your brain makes very quick assumptions about the potential, in this case, organic source.
At the same time, I agree with some of the reviewers that Antaeus could be perceived as a cleaner version of Aramis. In comparison, Antaeus has more clean balsamic and resinous notes (“beeswax”, myrrh) and less bitter and sour notes. So, if you find Aramis wearable and don’t mind its skanky animalic notes, you most probably have no reservations about Antaeus, but vice versa might not hold true.
***
After full and proper wearing for some days, my perspective has shifted a bit. The manure association is gone, and to my surprise, I now get first and foremost a bunch of voluptuous (and a bit soapy) roses on animalic musk, meanwhile, patchouli and myrrh (maybe beeswax) combine to create an impression of dark chocolate, and underneath it all, there’s a specific sour note, I’m guessing castoreum.
Altogether, it now reminds me of Tom Ford’s Black Orchid, which supposedly was meant to smell like “a man’s crotch”. Well, I don’t know about that, but another parallel I now get with Antaeus is “mature lady / femme fatale perfume”. It has to do with roses and chocolate, heavy sweetness, and animalic sourness, which I find hard to connect with male BO, but parallels with some female BO seem to come up naturally (which is ironic, considering that castoreum is more or less beaver balls).
So, for me, Antaeus could easily be a unisex fragrance. At least, the current formulation does not strike me as particularly masculine. It has a kind of sweet and dark, “serious” lustiness, like a kind of flesh eating flower luring its prey with its sweet and dense, slightly putrid smell. Cougar perfume for men?
BTW, longevity of the current formulation is very good. I can still perceive some traces on my skin on the next day, even after showering. On clothes, it persists to the next day as a warm, but not too dirty hue, meaning the clothes still appear, more or less, clean. It is not overbearingly skanky and could even be worn in an office. But even with all its animalic facets considered, it is not, to my surprise, specifically masculine fragrance. I guess that’s the “paradoxical nature” of Antaeus everybody keeps talking about.
borzikow – :
Antaeus is a somewhat significant release, given the time it came out, the age dating in Chanel’s history, the widespread distribution and advertising it benefitted from. And above all, due to its lovely shape and appearance. A labdanum driven leather note with some herbal crispness that renders it a lot more unisex than many of the masculine focused reviews, and admittingly marketing aspects, suggest. Antaeus also might be the Chanel mainstream perfume that has been exposed most to reformulation. Understandably given the time since it’s been around and the nature of its core ingredients. While the older formulations appear endlessly extra seamless, integrated and polished, the current version with its notable rougher citric element is simplified, more leathery than the older versions, although not utterly dismal and still makes an attractive scent. Certainly worth trying out, even if only for historical cross-checking reference.
karabasich – :
31 rue cambon in the day and antaeus by nightfall. my day has been exquisite.
njs374InsuffBooni – :
One of the most masculine fragrances ever created, this 37 year old beauty (chypre) is such a masterclass in modern perfumery, it just has to be worn to be believed. The perfume starts off with a burst of citrus like a classy chypre – lemon, lime, coriander, myrtle, clary sage, and bergamot. It then moves to a classic floral base as it begins settling – with notes of labdanum, thyme, basil, rose and jasmine, and finally settles into a powdery animalic chypre base comprised of patchouli, castoreum, and oak moss. The reformulation is superb (alas, it would have been wonderful with the real instead of synthetic castoreum but those are small quibbles). Extremely long lasting with a huge sillage/projection this is for bold, grand, vintage, masculine and uninhibited men who exude pure class and sensuality. Given how masculine perfumery has been dumbed down these days to watery citrus floral musks, most accustomed to the Aventus type perfumes will be very shocked and probably revulsed by this uber masculine monster. But I can never seem to get enough of it, and truly yearn for the good ole days. A true masterpiece that has withstood the test of time. Enjoy!
uriahh – :
Clive Brass,
Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui is so much more Antaeus than YSL Kouros.
On the later, sofar I haven’t managed to pass through the Parisienne Urinoir top. That dirty rotten citrus, a bit like Boucheron pour homme.
Antaeus is classy where Kouros is bourgeois
che-tol – :
@Clive Brass – Kouros is a Fougere & Antaeus is a Chypre! Different ballparks 🙂
However I’ll agree that Kouros is the better frag although Antaeus is definitely up in those ranks too
Tasenok – :
It’s a great scent, but if one is looking for such a genre of fragrance YSL’s Kouros is the undisputed king. It offers everything Anteaus offers, but in a bigger and brasher way.
Dior Jules is a nice, spring-time alternative.
smersh – :
I usually don’t wear a fragrance 3 days in a row, 2 days in a row sometimes. But antaeus i wear almost 10 days in a row, altough i have about 40 frags!
I already love antaeus, wrote a review about it earlier but it is turning into something else, like an addiction.. I’m not sure if this is becoming my signiture scent.
May be i found “the special one” already, may be ” it’s written in the stars that we are destined to be together” lol
I don’t know where this is going, but i love the way it goes.
mva1985leo – :
Masterpiece in a bottle, designer fragrance, niche scent! a very quality work from Monsieur Polge, if you like 80’s scents, you can’t miss this one!
10/10
gut456speagoessenda – :
very similar to hugo boss number one (vintage made in germany edition) , but i will still be picking this one up but again that will be vintage one !
Pavel.kovtunenko – :
I’m a huge fan of this scent, have yet to give it a proper review here too but wanted to chime in regarding the vintage/current formulation review below too.
I have 3 spray bottles of Antaeus – one which is 2016ish with the black sprayer, another from 2004 (silver around the sprayer nozzle) and that one is very floral at the top and certainly lacks the oomph as noted below, which I found very disappointing. My other vintage is a lot earlier, and has “eau de toilette spray” on the bottle, and this really packs a punch. I’m so glad that Chanel have refomulated the scent back to what it was, I was a bit taken aback when smelling the floral vintage one for the first time, but after smelling a relatively older vintage one, it’s good to see that what’s available in the shops is similar to what this once was. It was also the modern version that I fell in love with!
lnnk – :
I have recently acquired a nice splash bottle of the vintage stuff (looks to be 1990’s judging by the bottle details). There is doubtlessly a little deterioration of the more fugitive notes (citrus, for instance), but the body is still very warm and beautiful. Though it is a different thing altogether, I’ve come to think of this as the dark, wintery counterpoint to Christian Dior’s original Eau Sauvage EDT, in terms of representing a genre-defining classic being produced in great form today…
As for vintage vs. reformulation, my overall impression is similar to Lunchbox148, below, whose reviews I usually find really helpful…
Pre-2015 (silver sprayer), the reformulation seemed to lack the good old sucker punch of unguent castoreum… the mid-phase seemed rather light and soft and almost hand-cream like, with the rose note being quite pronounced. Longevity was great, but projection backed off considerably after a somewhat coarse, rubbery opening and really nice myrtle-beeswax moment… I respected it for its history and pronounced difference from other things on the designer market, but never really pursued purchasing a bottle.
Post-2015 (black sprayer), my sense is that the smooth leatheriness, oomph of castoreum and sense of ‘darkness’ and ‘thickness’ have returned. I agree with Lunchbox148 about almost everything here, notably that the myrrh is right there. It is, IMHO, a much, much more well-balanced progress than the previous reformulation. The herbal character (sage, myrtle and thyme) really contribute to a moody chypre accord here. I acquired the deo stick (also very good) and added both the EDT and aftershave splash to ‘the list’.
early 90’s Vintage: here, I get more of what Luca Turin meant when said, “cigar box woody”. The combination of tobacco and woods is more evident, supplying a spectacularly dry, 3-d smoky woods impression that faces off against animalic castoreum flanked by flowers into a tender yet brutish sensuality. The balance is pure classicism (Apollo vs. Dionysos) and so deeply mediterranean. It seems to grow more complex and more rich over the course of the wearing.
Synthesis: I think that the new reform is very much worth purchasing and owning, even as a signature. The current craftsmanship is excellent. I’d like to layer the vintage with the new stuff for the sheer pleasure of it, but really appreciate the new stuff as a worthy continuity of the legacy. Just my 2 cents…
бетман3 – :
Leather – animalic – dark woody
Color impression: black green
The Zeus of leather and castoreum for die hard classic Ford Mustang fans. This fragrance has a notable dark woody base, leather animalic heart and hesperidic citrus top; all edited with herbaceous filters. It’s Marlon Brando in The Wild One.
★★★★
milla_kamilla – :
This is the 1980’s in a bottle; power suits, handmade shoes, hair oil, and Zack Morris-esq cell phones all blended in with the smell of stale cigars left in a boardroom ash tray. Too much…just too much…
danxxx – :
I’ve never really been a fan of this perfume. Smelled like an awful blast of floral/animal musk which totally put me off and it’s not just because I don’t like macho, animal scents because there’s loads I’ve always liked not least Kouros. However, there was always something which intrigued me in the other notes, spicy/herbal glimpses of something really quite amazing and definitely unique. However, this was older formulations and trying it again and again over the years I’m either…. Starting to warm to it? my tastes have changed? Antaeus is so bloody complex I’m smelling different things everytime? The formula has and is constantly evolving so much